What should I add to my to-do list?
Just bout a 2000 AP1 with 59k miles, super excited. I've ordered a ton of fluids so far. I'd like input as to my maintenance plan and any suggestions to get the car in best running order. So far next week I will be:
Installing Billman TCT, change trans fluid honda mtf, change oil to AMS and oem filter, flush and fresh Honda coolant, Mobil 1 diff fluid, new OEM airfilter and cabin filter, forever black and 303 for the soft top, lexol the seats, clay bar and wax exterior, new NGK oem spark plugs, new oem brake pads.
What am i missing? any bushings, mounts or tie rods you'd replace?
Also new tires (likely michellin super sports) once I find a set of ap2 wheels or any good wheels for sale....recommendations?
Installing Billman TCT, change trans fluid honda mtf, change oil to AMS and oem filter, flush and fresh Honda coolant, Mobil 1 diff fluid, new OEM airfilter and cabin filter, forever black and 303 for the soft top, lexol the seats, clay bar and wax exterior, new NGK oem spark plugs, new oem brake pads.
What am i missing? any bushings, mounts or tie rods you'd replace?
Also new tires (likely michellin super sports) once I find a set of ap2 wheels or any good wheels for sale....recommendations?
Good suggestion. Make sure this hasn't already been addressed (check the factory markings). More info can be found here.
Looks like you're hitting it all. Doubtful the axle nut was ever torqued but easy to check when you remove the rear wheels (the center cap is hard to remove with the wheel on the car). If you run out of things to do you want to come over and claybar my car?
I can re-torque your rear axle nut at the same time.
-- Chuck
I can re-torque your rear axle nut at the same time.-- Chuck
One seemingly small thing that I personally think improves the car quite a bit is the clutch freeplay adjustment. There is a very good video on how to do it here:
There is also a long thread on this. The thread got really confusing. The video is all you need. Its a five minute adjustment. I find that setting the freeplay to the point referenced in the video improves the performance of the clutch a great deal.
Another thing that I would recommend is a valve adjustment. You may find the valves are set correctly. But, if not, you can head off real problems down the road and maybe improve performance a bit, by setting your valve gaps to oem specs. Also, while you are working on the valve adjustment, inspect the valve retainers for the tell tale signs of cracks. Ap1 valve retainers are known to crack sometimes if the engine is mechanically over rev'd, (can happen if you are running at high rpms and you mistakenly downshift into a gear that is too low for your speed forcing the engine to exceed the red line by a lot). If the retainers are not cracked then in my opinion there is no need to replace the valve retainers which is a bit of a job because if you mechanically over-rev you will know you have done it,(hard to miss), and you will check them at that point if your car is still running! I see it as part of the repair if an engine has been mechanically over rev'd. Since you are not the original owner there is no way to be sure without inspecting them. Others will advise you to replace them with ap2 retainers even if they are not cracked. There are a lot of threads on this.
Also, when you get new tires, find a good alignment shop in your area and get it aligned to oem specs. Of all the things you are doing, good new tires and a good alignment, make the biggest difference in the car. When they do the alignment, ask to anti-seize all the alignment adjustment bolts and examine the bushings for you. My shop does this automatically as part of the alignment job. They are probably fine - but those adjustment bolts tend to seize because they are exposed to the elements, and its good to keep them lubricated.
Oh, yea, another thing. You will read about a suggestion that the "banjo bolts" in the engine should be upgraded. These are part of the oiling system in the bottom end of the engine. The bolts were modified by honda sometime in the middle of the 02 model year I believe. You probably have the older style banjo bolts. I have read different opinions on these pages about whether it is necessary to upgrade these bolts for a car that is driven as a street car. Fortunately, both of my ap1s were manufactured with the new style bolts so I did not have to make a decision on this. But, you do have to make a decision and my recommendation is to search the forum for threads that have "banjo" and "billman" in them. I think you will find one where Billman makes a recommendation and in my opinion you can not possibly get better advice on any s2k mechanical issue than you are able to get from Billman. I recommend follow the advice Billman has given on the issue. Its not a terrible job, but its not easy and there is part of it that involves some risk of stripping the block which then becomes potentially a very significant fix. If it were me, I would probably leave it alone. I do not track my cars.
Finally, notwithstanding all these issues, you are fortunate to have a really great car and I hope you drive it a lot and enjoy it fully. I'm sure you will.
Another thing that I would recommend is a valve adjustment. You may find the valves are set correctly. But, if not, you can head off real problems down the road and maybe improve performance a bit, by setting your valve gaps to oem specs. Also, while you are working on the valve adjustment, inspect the valve retainers for the tell tale signs of cracks. Ap1 valve retainers are known to crack sometimes if the engine is mechanically over rev'd, (can happen if you are running at high rpms and you mistakenly downshift into a gear that is too low for your speed forcing the engine to exceed the red line by a lot). If the retainers are not cracked then in my opinion there is no need to replace the valve retainers which is a bit of a job because if you mechanically over-rev you will know you have done it,(hard to miss), and you will check them at that point if your car is still running! I see it as part of the repair if an engine has been mechanically over rev'd. Since you are not the original owner there is no way to be sure without inspecting them. Others will advise you to replace them with ap2 retainers even if they are not cracked. There are a lot of threads on this.
Also, when you get new tires, find a good alignment shop in your area and get it aligned to oem specs. Of all the things you are doing, good new tires and a good alignment, make the biggest difference in the car. When they do the alignment, ask to anti-seize all the alignment adjustment bolts and examine the bushings for you. My shop does this automatically as part of the alignment job. They are probably fine - but those adjustment bolts tend to seize because they are exposed to the elements, and its good to keep them lubricated.
Oh, yea, another thing. You will read about a suggestion that the "banjo bolts" in the engine should be upgraded. These are part of the oiling system in the bottom end of the engine. The bolts were modified by honda sometime in the middle of the 02 model year I believe. You probably have the older style banjo bolts. I have read different opinions on these pages about whether it is necessary to upgrade these bolts for a car that is driven as a street car. Fortunately, both of my ap1s were manufactured with the new style bolts so I did not have to make a decision on this. But, you do have to make a decision and my recommendation is to search the forum for threads that have "banjo" and "billman" in them. I think you will find one where Billman makes a recommendation and in my opinion you can not possibly get better advice on any s2k mechanical issue than you are able to get from Billman. I recommend follow the advice Billman has given on the issue. Its not a terrible job, but its not easy and there is part of it that involves some risk of stripping the block which then becomes potentially a very significant fix. If it were me, I would probably leave it alone. I do not track my cars.
Finally, notwithstanding all these issues, you are fortunate to have a really great car and I hope you drive it a lot and enjoy it fully. I'm sure you will.
Last edited by rpg51; May 6, 2018 at 06:56 AM.
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stock ap1 16” inch wheels, at first I was dead set on getting AP2 for the 17 inch look. But had a nice long conversation with another for a member that convinced me to consider sticking with the 16s. Now if I do any type of wheel change whether 16 or 17 it will likely be just for appearances and fun
Check for spring spacers, you'd be surprised how many owners have had this issue:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ta...od-one-629997/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ta...od-one-629997/
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