4.44 install
Hi Guys,
Finally looking to install the 4.44 gears i purchased almost 9 months ago.
Just wondering which shim thickness will be required? I've conducted some research and the only info i've found is that the 4.77's require shim's that are thinner than the thinnest shim provided by Honda.
Further, please see below for the parts that i've acquired for the operation:
2 Bearing screw adjust
2 Plate lock tabs
1 Spacer rear bearing pinion
1 Bottom drain washer
1 Rear drain washer
1 Pinion lock nut
1 Pinion washer
2 Circlip output shafts
1 Pinion front bearing
1 Pinion rear bearing
2 Side bearings Left/Right
1 Pinion oil seal
2 Side oil seal
4 End cap bolt
Can someone please verify whether this ticks all the boxes? Or add any additional parts to 'recondition' the diff while installing the 4.44.
Lastly, i came across an issue that was highly debated within a topic from 2003. It was regarding the need to replace the 10 bolts that hold the ring gear and the LSD together. I'm always fairly cautious so would want to replace this during the process. Can anyone confirm the part numbers so i can order from CFL?
Cheers
Finally looking to install the 4.44 gears i purchased almost 9 months ago.
Just wondering which shim thickness will be required? I've conducted some research and the only info i've found is that the 4.77's require shim's that are thinner than the thinnest shim provided by Honda.
Further, please see below for the parts that i've acquired for the operation:
2 Bearing screw adjust
2 Plate lock tabs
1 Spacer rear bearing pinion
1 Bottom drain washer
1 Rear drain washer
1 Pinion lock nut
1 Pinion washer
2 Circlip output shafts
1 Pinion front bearing
1 Pinion rear bearing
2 Side bearings Left/Right
1 Pinion oil seal
2 Side oil seal
4 End cap bolt
Can someone please verify whether this ticks all the boxes? Or add any additional parts to 'recondition' the diff while installing the 4.44.
Lastly, i came across an issue that was highly debated within a topic from 2003. It was regarding the need to replace the 10 bolts that hold the ring gear and the LSD together. I'm always fairly cautious so would want to replace this during the process. Can anyone confirm the part numbers so i can order from CFL?
Cheers
Cool, thanks for letting me know.
The 4.44 i've acquired is the MotorKlasse. Within the instructions it specifies a 1000 mile break in which i'm happy to adhere to.
It also states to change out the oil after this break in period. I know the Amsoil 75W110 is the correct spec for our diff's, just wondering if using synthetic is too early within the life of the diff?
Cheers,
The 4.44 i've acquired is the MotorKlasse. Within the instructions it specifies a 1000 mile break in which i'm happy to adhere to.
It also states to change out the oil after this break in period. I know the Amsoil 75W110 is the correct spec for our diff's, just wondering if using synthetic is too early within the life of the diff?
Cheers,
The important crush sleeve is not in your part list.
This part is a must have!
Maybe a bit overdone on the circlips, locking plate and screws, but better safe than sorry.
IIRC those parts are listed in the manual as "needed to be replaced"
You can not predict what shim you need.
You HAVE TO install the pinion (using a lucky-guess-shim) and ring and look at the tooth contact and take it from there.
You can reuse the old crush sleeve to install the pinion the first - second - third - time (basically as many times it takes) to see what shim you need to get the contact right.
Then, with the right shim, you use the new crush sleeve and new pinion locking nut for the final install.
Getting the tooth contact right is absolutely crucial.
Fail to do this and you will have a very noisy diff (at least) and a diff failure most likely somewhere down the road.
Installing a ring & pinion is not a shady tree project.
This part is a must have!
Maybe a bit overdone on the circlips, locking plate and screws, but better safe than sorry.
IIRC those parts are listed in the manual as "needed to be replaced"
You can not predict what shim you need.
You HAVE TO install the pinion (using a lucky-guess-shim) and ring and look at the tooth contact and take it from there.
You can reuse the old crush sleeve to install the pinion the first - second - third - time (basically as many times it takes) to see what shim you need to get the contact right.
Then, with the right shim, you use the new crush sleeve and new pinion locking nut for the final install.
Getting the tooth contact right is absolutely crucial.
Fail to do this and you will have a very noisy diff (at least) and a diff failure most likely somewhere down the road.
Installing a ring & pinion is not a shady tree project.
^^ What this guy said. If you're unfamiliar with diffs I'm not sure rebuilding this yourself without some research is the best thing..
Do some research on building diffs and do some studying before tearing into this project.
Do some research on building diffs and do some studying before tearing into this project.
When I did my install of the same gear set,i figured out later the shim on your old pinion gear in the diff housing is the one you will most likely use for that gear set. Also a secret you can use to save a few bucks is buy the bearings from a Mazda dealer for a 2005 miata differential. The bearings are the identical Japanese made ones. I got that tip from s2kpuddydad. If you are having a mechanic do the install for you,make sure he has experience with differentials.
Also with my install,I used tighter backlash clearances than what Motorklasse recommends. You may want to ask what your mechanic recommends....
Also with my install,I used tighter backlash clearances than what Motorklasse recommends. You may want to ask what your mechanic recommends....
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