Yes, i got absolutely nothing. After around 5 seconds the engine would start running pretty rough and i would put the coils back in but i assumed that was normal for the counterbalance of a dead cylinder. No immediate changes in any cylinders.

 

I sent you a PM. I would greatly appreciate your help whether it is to spare me of the burden with this engine or help me fix it. I could take the car to Lexington anytime, someone who truly knows and understands s2000s and their internals and won't just guess and lie to me about the problem is exactly what i am looking for, and cant seem to find here in Louisville..

 

Is this your first time performing a valve adjustment? Also, did you use a valve adjustment tool?

I would guess that the valve adjustment may not have been done correctly.

Did you find that any of the valves were loose when you performed the adjustment?

 

Sent you (op) private message.

 

Yes, this is my first valve adjustment and it may very well have been done wrong. I personally found that nearly all of the valves were very tight and I ended up loosening most of them(and some of them quite a bit) to get it where it is now. I just used a wrench and a flathead screwdriver. I set everything to factory specs with bent feeler gauges, followed a guide somewhere on here as best as I could. Something weird I did notice was that when i would finally be able to get the feeler gauge in between the valves, there would almost always be some play in it in order to get the feller gauge in. As in, when i managed to find the slot between the valves and get the gauge in, the upper part of the valves when lift up a slight amount to make room for the feeler gauge. I personally found this to be a little bit strange, but may very well be normal.

 

this does not sound normal, and it sounds like you did not perform the valve adjustment correctly.

hopefully halfassjack can help you perform this valve adjustment properly.

 

It did that as soon as I popped off the valve cover and tried to see where the valves were adjusted before i did anything at all, so maybe it does have something to do with the sound. At the end of the day, the noise did change substantially(at least in person) leading me to believe it *may* still be related to the valves.

Yes I am sure he will be a great help, hard to find anyone local who knows anything about these cars.

 

alright...we shall wait for valve adjustment...good luck.

 

The valve clearance you are measuring is the distance from the rocker arm adjuster to the valve stem tip with the rocker moved to the top of it's travel without the cam lobe acting on it. This clearance reduces as the car gets warm, even when the car is fully warmed there should be a tiny amount of play.

The reason for the play is two-fold, 1.) it allows the valves to fully make contact with the valve seat. 2.) It reduces resonant frequency in the valve train.

The people that go nuts when they hear a little valve chatter are over worrying, you'll do far more damage to your engine having the valves too tight than too loose. I rather live with a little chatter than live with the noises I'll be making as I'm pulling the head to replace valve guides, seats, and seals.

Most Porsches also have rigid mechanical drive trains that require frequent valve adjustments, and when it's just done, the engine sounds like it's going to fall apart. Except for the new 911 GT3, they have rigid valve trains like our cars but they have valvetrain witchcraft that lets them have 186,000 mile valve adjustment intervals.

 

Halfassjack and I went through the valves again and re-adjusted them all. Didn't get rid of the noise, looking for a used replacement engine at the moment.