CEL AGAIN! Misfire
i had a customer with a 2000 with 100k+ with map sensor voltage above 1v so i did a valve adjustment, came back down to normal specs. .88-.90 or so, anyways the car was fine for about 5k then cel came on again, once again the map voltage above 1v, performed series of test turned out all 8 exhaust valves were leaking.....removed the head, valve guides were severly worn, ordered valves, guides, performed the whole job car has been good for few months now 
so i think its either a valve adjustment, or your valves are leaking which = to the same thing but tearing apart the motor hurts the wallet a lot more...
so i think its either a valve adjustment, or your valves are leaking which = to the same thing but tearing apart the motor hurts the wallet a lot more...
I have an extra set of low mile injectors from a 2002 lying around. If you happen to be nearby in WI we could swap them and see if anything changes.
i had a customer with a 2000 with 100k+ with map sensor voltage above 1v so i did a valve adjustment, came back down to normal specs. .88-.90 or so, anyways the car was fine for about 5k then cel came on again, once again the map voltage above 1v, performed series of test turned out all 8 exhaust valves were leaking.....removed the head, valve guides were severly worn, ordered valves, guides, performed the whole job car has been good for few months now
so i think its either a valve adjustment, or your valves are leaking which = to the same thing but tearing apart the motor hurts the wallet a lot more...
so i think its either a valve adjustment, or your valves are leaking which = to the same thing but tearing apart the motor hurts the wallet a lot more...
troubleshooting is a lot easier if you get an obdii scanner that will give you sensor data. if you are getting codes, retrieve the sensor freeze frame data then post it here. the data is often more useful than the code.
I was having random misfires and very rough idle. It turned out to be the injectors. IMO, you should remove the injectors for inspection + cleanup even if you don't replace them. i've seen 3 different sets of s2k injectors and they were all super dirty w/ lots of buildup due to deposits in the injector ports. i think the spray pattern would get distorted if there's enough buildup in the intake manifold. if you are cheap, you could clean the injectors yourself. i made a ghetto injector cleaning jig when i did mine.
checking tps sensor: engine off, car on...step on the accelerator slowly and watch the % throttle position on the scanner. it should increase as you step on the pedal. if it changes linearly without jumping around, the tps is fine.
checking map sensor: read the air pressure with the car off. it should be 101kpa (atmospheric pressure). if it's some other number, the map is bad.
checking spark plugs: aside from the usual examination of the tips, i think you shoulld be able to measure the resistance of the center electrode. our oem ngk plugs are the resistor type. it should measure around 5kohm and all plugs should be approximately the same value. my car came w/ crappy bosch +4 plugs and i found out they were bad because 3 of the 4 plugs had super high resistance. they also had different resistances.
checking alternator: just measure the voltage when the car is running. should be around 14v. switch the meter to AC mode. if you measure anything other than 0V in AC mode, the alternator diodes might be going bad.
I was having random misfires and very rough idle. It turned out to be the injectors. IMO, you should remove the injectors for inspection + cleanup even if you don't replace them. i've seen 3 different sets of s2k injectors and they were all super dirty w/ lots of buildup due to deposits in the injector ports. i think the spray pattern would get distorted if there's enough buildup in the intake manifold. if you are cheap, you could clean the injectors yourself. i made a ghetto injector cleaning jig when i did mine.
checking tps sensor: engine off, car on...step on the accelerator slowly and watch the % throttle position on the scanner. it should increase as you step on the pedal. if it changes linearly without jumping around, the tps is fine.
checking map sensor: read the air pressure with the car off. it should be 101kpa (atmospheric pressure). if it's some other number, the map is bad.
checking spark plugs: aside from the usual examination of the tips, i think you shoulld be able to measure the resistance of the center electrode. our oem ngk plugs are the resistor type. it should measure around 5kohm and all plugs should be approximately the same value. my car came w/ crappy bosch +4 plugs and i found out they were bad because 3 of the 4 plugs had super high resistance. they also had different resistances.
checking alternator: just measure the voltage when the car is running. should be around 14v. switch the meter to AC mode. if you measure anything other than 0V in AC mode, the alternator diodes might be going bad.
When I took the car to a Honda dealer they checked the codes and the freeze data. They wanted to replace the spark plugs and do a valve adjustment although I told them I just had a valve adjustment done and the plugs are new... bs. I talked to the shop foreman and he showed me the freeze data and told me that the map sensor was reading high at idle(1.01v). He explained its caused by the vavles being too tight. I then mentioned the TSB about the map sensor, he looked it up and then changed his mind and said I should replace the map sensor. They wanted $160 to install it so I ordered the part myself. I hope that will fix it otherwise back to honda.
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