if you're only doing bolt-ons, why not just get an oem clutch? it's cheap if you get an independent shop to do it and obviously reliable.

 

The reason for wanting a stout clutch set up (for me anyways) is to be able to ease some of the stress to the drivetrain. I don't plan on abusing the S but I know sometimes we all feel like cutting loose and tracking or drifting. And as we all know replacing a clutch is way more practical and even cheaper than having to down the car due to needing a new tranny. That is my outlook anyways, of course other parts such as the drive axles, shaft and diff have to be taken into account with the stress they come under as well.

 

I'm still pretty wet behind the ears with clutches and all, but wouldn't a clutch with more clamping force put the entire drivetrain through more stress as it would have the ability to transfer more torque down the line rather than slipping?

Not saying I'm right, just asking for my information.

 

That sounds logical, Hence the set up recommended by vooper. A clutch that is easy on the drivetrain but can bite hard when pushed. After all the car will not be in any type of endurance race or D1 event. Just leisurely thrashed about once in a while.

 

I'm at 115k miles and 20+ track days on the original clutch.

A "stout" clutch won't make life easier on other drivetrain components, anyway. In the case of a street NA S2k, it won't really make any difference in that regard. The stock clutch will deliver all the torque the wee little F20C or F22C can muster!

There have been cases with other cars where the stock clutch wasn't up to launches on drag radials, leading people to upgrade the clutch, but then finding the next weakest link (rear ends on 4th-gen F-bodies)!

 

Got it, it sounds like i misinterpreted what you were saying.