I resurfaced the flywheel and pressureplate and got a new disc and everything was good to go after the install - Pretty much brand new OEM performance

 

Agreed.

Since we both know what it takes to replace the seal, and we know the chance for error, and we know it's current success rate, do we really advise someone who asks "what it takes to do a clutch" to do his own rear main seal? If he doesn't, the worst that could happen is that he looses 1/4 quart per year from a seep.

Or he looses his engine, because he cut the seal during insatllation, or didn't have the depth right.

Leave it alone.

 

I'm guessing with the kind of slipping descibed, it's quite likely that the clutch disc has been worn down to the rivets which could've already put some significant gouges on the FW that re-surface may not be good enough.

 

If I wanted to just replace the disk, would I still need to buy the throwout bearing and the pilot bearing?

 

This isn't a good area for experimenting. At best, you'll have to replace them soon anyway, and if you have someone else doing the work for you its going to cost about as much as replacing just the disk in labor. Do you REALLY want to pay 600-900 bucks TWICE because you cheaped out the first time?

Long story stort, it'll cost you a whole lot more later than doing it all right the first time.

 

is the throw out bearing also considered pilot bearing? Just looking at teh honda parts website.

 

No, the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel, the TO bearing rides on the inpit shaft.

 

Yea, I guess I wouldn't want to go in there twice. I was thinking about doing it myself, but we'll see. I'm just gonna order the ACT clutch kit from evasive... Comes with everything except the flywheel which I guess i'll just resurface mine.