If you have this Harbor Frieght 1.5 Ton aluminum jack…

A) Know if it can reach either the "front jacking bracket" or "rear differential carrier" jacking points? (see p. 1-18, Honda Service Manual).
I believe these are the front and rear central jacking points for lifting either both front wheels, or both rear wheels.

B) Does it tend to be easier to reach the front jacking bracket, or the rear differential carrier?

C) Know what tricks are needed to get enough clearance with this jack? (e.g. Drive up on a board of particular height)

D) That jack won't reach, try this one instead…

Thanks for any insights!

 

I have a similar jack from harbor freight, maybe that exact one, looks about the same profile. I had to make a ramp with two 2x10s, a shorter one on top, both angled to 45 degrees on the edges. I'm lowered 3/4" but even stock this was necessary.

 

Thank you for the ramp specs!

 

To answer your specific questions-
A) the HF 1.5 ton jack isnt going to reach those points unless you drive the car up on blocks/ramps. Even then part of the handle will be under the car so you will have a limited range of motion. This will be an issue for all jacks, but especially for the 1.5ton HF jack since it has a short reach.
B) I think the front is easier, because you can easily plant the front bumper into the ground if you start with the differential end first.
C) Dont know a particular height ramp or wood block, but see below for how I do it.
D) Also see step 3 below


Jacking s2000's up tends to be quite a hassle in my experience, especially if its lowered. The jack I link to in step 3 might work by itself on an s2000 that isn't lowered with a lip on it.

Here is my process that I usually take. Ramps might help eliminate steps 1 and 2 if you have them.

1. Drive front wheels up onto two pieces of wood (one under each wheel)... this can probably be skipped if your car isnt lowered
2. Use 1.5 ton aluminum low profile jack under one of the front corner jack points and jack the car up high enough to slide jack #2 under the front center jack point
3. Slide this 3 ton harbor freight jack under the front central jack point and make sure everything is lined up perfectly
4. Carefully lower the 1.5ton jack until the car is fully on the 3 ton jack linked above.
5. Jack the car up with the 3 ton jack until jack stands fit under the front of the car on the lowest setting.
6. repeat for the rear if needed.
7. Once the car is level on jack stands, then I move to the front and jack the car higher to extend the jack stands and then move to the rear to do the same.

Its quite the process, and steps 3/4 admittedly sound a little sketchy when I write them out but I'm always careful and never rush it when doing it and it has never felt unsafe. Obviously don't get under the car without jack stands in place.

 

Thanks for the comprehensive reply and detailing your process!

 

I am able to drive front onto 3/4" thick boards, slide long reach low profile jack under front bumper to front central jack point, lift front, place stands at front side lift points, pull jack from front central jack point setting car on the jack stands, lift rear central jack point with same jack, place stands under rear side jack points, lower on to rear side jack stands, done.

 

I use a Daytona low profile jack and cusco ramps to get my S2000 on jack stands and its fairly low.

 

It does not fit, but I keep it around for quick jobs. I use a quick jack for most jobs now.

darcy

 

I have that exact jack. It won't reach, and as stated, even with driving onto blocks it'd be awkward, verging on undoable.

I use this jack as a substitute for blocks (which I originally tried, and found time consuming).

I take both jacks out. Use this small one to jack under one of the front, side jack points. I lift that side high enough to get the big jack under front, center jack point.

I find it much faster and easier than driving onto blocks. Having the second jack has come in handy doing other jobs on other cars.