S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

downshifted by mistake

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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 11:18 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by march2000,Jun 26 2006, 05:37 PM
Thanks guys, I just got done pulling the cover and putting everything back together. The retainers look good with no visible stretch or crack. I put the valve cover back on and I made sure it went in okay, but didn't know the exact torque spec for that so I just tighten it down with wrench (not too tight), I just found out that it doesn't take much (like 8-9 ft.lb) so I hope everythihg is okay; most likely overtighten them by a bit!

Now are there any ways to inpect any leak from the valve cover gasket? I just wasn't sure if the overtighten the bolts will cause any leak or not. It does look like it is zipping through a couple of places (like on the front left side [corner] of the engine [left from the front of the car, and right side if you are heading toward the front of the car) but it might just be when I put the cover back on as it didn't go back in perfectly at first so with me moving the cover around it might pick up oil on some places.

Oh and I forgot to add, when I put the valve cover back, I didn't use gasket sealer [oil soaked finger](I think that what they called) when I put it back. I don't know if they use that from the factory since when I pulled it out the valve cover seem to be sticky so I thought they might have use some kind of gasket sealer.

I did tighten them in the right order with the wrench but I didn't have a small torque wrench so I just hand tight and then tighten it up with the wrench. I was probably over tighten those valve cover bolts by quite a bit (hopefully it will be fine). And should I go and buy a small torque wrench and then just lossen those bolts and re-torque them to spec or it should be fine as is?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 01:06 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by march2000,Jun 27 2006, 12:18 AM
should I go and buy a small torque wrench and then just lossen those bolts and re-torque them to spec?

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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:13 AM
  #33  
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No need to put anything on the old gasket. Re-using it will be fine. The valve cover bolts will eventually bottom out, then get tight. Just feel them out.

My pic was added above, but for some reason it was edited to "stretched" instead of "cracked". Retainer don't stretch, they crack open on the underside and it cannot be seen. The sunk-in effect from the crack however is quite easy to spot.

Pulling the valve cover is the only step needed. As long as you can read the pic, inspecting the retainers is a piece of cake.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:20 AM
  #34  
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Here's the underside of that retainer on the right:

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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:33 AM
  #35  
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Billman,

Thanks for the photos. It really helps. Having just bought and 02 with 50K miles, the possibility of over stressed retainers is a worry. Now I understand what to look for.

Greatly appreciated!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 10:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RED MX5,Jun 25 2006, 05:20 PM
Yea, you *should* know.

What is the ultimate cost of a stretched retainer in an F20C or F22C?

What tools and skills are needed to check the retainers?
(Hint: It's only slightly harder than checking the oil level.)
What's it going to cost for the guy to pull the cover and take a look?
What's it going to cost if he takes your advice and has a stretched retainer?
I did'nt mean to implie that he not check it out. Just don't get to freaked out about it. Sorry.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Jun 27 2006, 03:13 AM
No need to put anything on the old gasket. Re-using it will be fine. The valve cover bolts will eventually bottom out, then get tight. Just feel them out.

My pic was added above, but for some reason it was edited to "stretched" instead of "cracked". Retainer don't stretch, they crack open on the underside and it cannot be seen. The sunk-in effect from the crack however is quite easy to spot.

Pulling the valve cover is the only step needed. As long as you can read the pic, inspecting the retainers is a piece of cake.
Billman, thanks for the sharing the pictures as I recalled mine didn't have the sunk-in effect. All of them looks the same.

Anyway, thanks for vertify with me that I don't need any gasket sealer when putting them back together. I will not bother to take off my valve cover bolts and re-tighten (re-torque) them as you mentioned that the valve cover bolts will eventually bottom out, then get tight so it was no need to lossen those bolts and re-torque them to spec.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 12:05 PM
  #38  
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Hmm. On Sunday I accidentally shifted into 3rd instead of 5th. Fortunately I was shortshifting to avoid feathering the throttle through a high speed apex. Max RPMs shown on my datalogger were 9759.

I drove 300 miles home from the track with no sign of trouble. Still, I had been planning for months to check the valves anyway. I guess this mistake gives me extra incentive.

Don't try to get that last session in at the track after 2-1/2 long days of tracking, at least not if you are tired enough to screw up your shifting!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Jun 27 2006, 06:13 AM
My pic was added above, but for some reason it was edited to "stretched" instead of "cracked". Retainer don't stretch, they crack open on the underside and it cannot be seen. The sunk-in effect from the crack however is quite easy to spot.
Bill, I'm the one who said stretched rather than cracked, because from the top side all we usually see is the stretching. It's actually the "sunk in effect" that tells us we have a problem. Sorry if I confused anyone, but since we see stretching rather than cracking when looking from above I thought I was being clearer.
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