Just thought it would be worth pointing out in case it hasn't been already,

I did my mounts taking the brackets off the block, works a treat and I managed to get the torque wrench on every bolt which was good as I have heard about some people having trouble on the passenger (UK) side top front bolt. It is a huge PITA to remove but for me was much easier to reinstall.

Anyway, the point I am getting at and one which was a big learning curve for me it.

Make sure when you jack the engine up to remove the old mounts you still have and extra 20-30mm of lift on the jack left for installing the new ones, yes it might be classed as a rookie error but I think it is worth warning others just in case it is their first time doing it - took me 45 minutes to find some stuff to support the wood I was using from both sides so I could then put an extra piece of spacing wood between the jack and the wood supporting the engine. It were one of those heart sinking moments where all you can say is "f**K". Couldn't get the bracket back on the re support the engine, couldn't lift the engine any higher, only had one spare axle stand...Ended up using the standard jack and a brick I acquired at a neighbors.

Apart from a really sore neck and upper body from all the contortion-ism, pretty easy job. Did the engine mounts and gearbox mounts in about 6 hours with that hiccup, the time it took to get the heavily seized on nuts off the old mounts (horrendous task - ended up bending all 3 bolts on both mounts), and clearing out the garage from the crap in the way. By no means records setting but reasonable considering.

Worth every minute, the car feels completely different to drive, really am pleased and would recommend doing it yourself to anyone considering.

Thought I should share that little bit of experience I gained to hopefully prevent someone else doing what I bloody did ha!

Cheers

Earl

 

Thanks, for the story & warning. Sure you'll never do that again. Funny how doing things the wrong way can be the best teacher.