Thanks for the replies guys. My car did read 3 bars when I arrived at the emissions testing (10 minute drive). Next time around, I'm going to take a nice long drive before heading in.

I am still going to have my MAP sensor replaced. Like my girlfriend, my car often has it's moody days and does not perform as it should. A few simple 'wacks' does the job.

Going to the Honda Dealer tomorrow.

 

I'm surprised that no one has suggested this:

If you're allowed to, try a different emissions testing station next time. Could be that the one you went to is wrong -- out of whack equipment or something. The fact that you passed everything else (with flying colors, mostly) makes me suspicious.

I'd do all the other suggested stuff, too (except beating up the car), though. HPH

 

I was looking into more causes of high CO and I came across this:

http://www.aircare.ca/repinfo-ere-causes-co.php

Would I be able to diagnose "Excessive Crankcase Blowby or PCV Flow" or "Saturated Evaporative Control System" myself? Does anybody think this could possibly be the problem or is my car still too new?

 

Ok, link does not work but this is what I was refering to:


Possible Causes of High Carbon Monoxide (CO) Emissions
High CO means too much fuel. Fuel can only come from three sources: the crankcase vapor control system, the evaporative control system, or the actual fuel delivery system.

The fuel delivery system is certainly the most likely culprit but in most cases it is very quick and easy to eliminate the other two possibilities first. However, if it is problematic to check the evaporative system purging, it is probably wise to go straight to fuel delivery system diagnosis.

In order to pinpoint the cause of excessive CO emissions, the following systems and possible defects will need to be checked, usually (but not always) in this order:

Excessive Crankcase Blowby or PCV Flow
If oil vapours in the engine's crankcase are excessive, or the oil is dirty or contaminated, excessive CO emissions can result. Dirty or contaminated oil is easily rectified by an oil change. Excess crankcase vapour flow can be caused by an incorrect PCV valve or by serious internal engine damage such as worn-out piston rings. Serious internal engine damage can only be remedied by major engine repair or overhaul.

For more info regarding the diagnosis of crankcase vapour control systems, see Crankcase Vapour Control System Testing.

Saturated Evaporative Control System
The charcoal canister stores fuel system vapors until they can be withdrawn and burned in the engine. Under normal circumstances, this should never result in excessive CO for more than a few seconds. It is possible for charcoal canisters to become saturated with fuel. This essentially means that they can never be cleared of HC vapors and need to be replaced.

For more info on how testing for excessive crankcase blow-by gases, see Evaporative Control System Testing.

Rich Air-Fuel Mixture
There are many aspects of the engine's fuel delivery system that may need to be checked when diagnosing a rich air/fuel mixture. That is the main reason that this is listed behind crankcase vapor and evaporative emission control systems-even though they are less likely causes of the problem, they are much easier and quicker to check.

When diagnosing a rich air-fuel mixture, it is important to keep in mind the possibility of a defect in an entirely different area affecting the operation of the fuel delivery system. For example, certain mechanical engine defects may cause abnormally low engine vacuum and result in the fuel system delivering more fuel than is actually needed by the engine. The symptom of excess CO may lead one to think that the defect lies with the fuel system but the problem actually lies elsewhere.

 

MIC,

I doubt that is your problem, but you could always change you PCV valve if you want to be sure. They aren't expensive. I've never done a honda before, but usually they just pull out (sometimes difficultly) of the valve cover with a pair of channel locks.

I think you are on the right track with the things you listed above (air filter, spark plugs, map whack, ecu reset, fuel injector cleaner). Also you mentioned that you had 3 bars on the coolant temp gauge. That's nowhere near fully warm. Make sure you drive it for a good 20 - 30 minutes before taking it in to the shop.

Even after your coolant temperature gauge reads in the middle (fully warm) your oil still needs another 10 minutes of driving before it reaches it's normal temperature.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Detroit Doc, I drive a MY2000 and 3 bars on the temp gauge means fully warm (I think the 04's and 05's reads 6 or 8 bars). As for the PCV valve, I will try to visually inspect to see if there are any leaks or cracks.