Background:
Car stats:
MY00
Comptech S/C
Comptech A/C
Godzilla BOV

Problem:
After Comptech S/C install the car would die when you gave it throttle past 25%. The car was driven 10-15 miles to local shops until it was determined that the FMU was not restricting fuel and the fuel pump was merely recycling the fuel giving me a static 15-20psi fuel pressure. I never threw a CEL until the FMU was fixed and then I got 3 in a row. Unfortunately, they were reset before I could write the codes down but they all involved Fuel Rail and cylinder bank (I'm sure that doesn't help). Those were erased and the car drove ok but was sluggish from 1-4krpm.

After that, I started throwing the P1106 code. The car still would bog and occasionally do a muffled backfire. All ESM connections were checked and rechecked and checked again. I took the car to a dyno to check out my A/F and it was VERY lean:


The car has not been driven since then. The exhaust note sounds a little different than it did before (sounds almost "ricey")and I can hear an odd bumping from the drivers seat. It sounds as if it is coming from behind the steering wheel. You cannot hear the noise from the outside of the car. I thought it was the A/C hitting the STB but I removed the STB and I can still hear it.

Today, I plan to install a new fuel pump and put in a new ecu. The honda dealership wants $80 to do each diagnostic scan so I figured I would bite the bullet and replace this stuff rather prior to going to avoid having to put it on the diagnostic machine multiple times.

I finally found a honda place that will look at my. The place I usually go turned very unfriendly when they heard the car was supercharged. I am making a checklist of things for them to check over.

The main thing I would like to know is should I be concerned with the car being driven for up to 15 miles at 15-20psi of fuel and then another 2 weeks of extreme lean conditions? The spark plugs were not damaged. They were all white and every single one was gapped differently but not a single one was actually damaged which would indicated extreme detonation. Anyways, I think I am going to have them do the following:

OBDII Diagnostic (Thank you to SlowS2k for letting me know what to compare for the check)
Leakdown Test
Check Injectors
Try to determine what is causing the bumping noise

Anything else I should have them check over? 02 sensor maybe?

I would also like to say thank you to everyone on this board who has suggested possible fixes. SlowS2k, Xviper, and Aus especially. Without this site, I would have hung myself by now. I appoligize to everyone for making another post. I just want to make sure that I cover everything.

 

Keep the revs as low as you can. Stay away from boost as much as possible (below about 4000). Stay away from WOT and heavy load (use a lower gear if possible to prevent low rpm and heavy throttle).
If you're really worried about it, loosen the S/C belt, slip it off the crank drive pulley and secure it up and out of the way.

 

Thank you that is what I did to get it up there. Do you think my motor needs to be checked out after the driving with low fuel pressure and then for almost two weeks with adequate fuel pressure but lean a/f?

 

Can't say. Have the plugs inspected to see what story they tell. Go from there.

 

Yes, I posted them on here a little while back. Here's a pic:

 

The above pic and this statement of yours:
don't seem to coincide. I do remember that picture now and I think my reply then was that the plug did not tell a story of a predominantly lean condition. I'm afraid your mystery continues.

 

That pic does make its seem a bit gray I guess due to the lighting. The tip, bottom ring, and threads are blackish and everything else is white.
The heat (I'm guessing it was the heat) Caused the porcelain to have burn marks where it its the metal bolt area.

There are no chips or damage indicating that it would have seen an extreme detonation.

I have NGK 7173's in there now. Maybe I'll pull one out and snap a pic in the truest lighting I can find. In order to get the most accurate read, shouldn't you try to let it idle as short as possible for you turn it off?

 

Took it for a light drive tonight with the carchip logger and noticed that it was idling perfectly after the ecu change. I haven't received a CEL light yet. I got on it a little bit and noticed that it pulled decently. The only odd thing is I dont make any boost (even at 5500rpm) in first gear. I make boost in second and in third at that rpm though.. The vacuum actually stays around 10in/hg at this rpm in first. Almost makes me think the BOV is staying open until it is under extreme load. Is that posibility?

The car seems to be running great though. It has some problems at low rpms (feels like I have traction control) but it goes right away. Maybe this is just the new ecu "learning"? I'm taking it back for leakdown and obdII scan to watch the timing when I feel it slip in the low gear.