How to remove AP2 Hub or Stripped Stud
08-03-2015, 10:36 AM
#1
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How to remove AP2 Hub or Stripped Stud
I've had this 2006 s2k for a long time, but I've never owned it's maintenance. I'm changing that.
Somewhere along the way one of the passenger rear studs was stripped. I tried sawing the stud off, no love, it won't come out the back of the hub. So I'm working on removing the hub.
I'm able to remove the front stabilizer, but not the top and bottom control arm ball joints. (pardon me if I got the part names wrong .. noob)
Do I need the Honda Ball Joint Separator Tool for this? Any suggestions on how to remove hub from the ball joints?
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UU&usp=sharing
Thanks!
-Ken
Somewhere along the way one of the passenger rear studs was stripped. I tried sawing the stud off, no love, it won't come out the back of the hub. So I'm working on removing the hub.
I'm able to remove the front stabilizer, but not the top and bottom control arm ball joints. (pardon me if I got the part names wrong .. noob)
Do I need the Honda Ball Joint Separator Tool for this? Any suggestions on how to remove hub from the ball joints?
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...UU&usp=sharing
Thanks!
-Ken
08-03-2015, 10:54 AM
#2
I bought this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealey-Hydra...item1c4ae92a15
There's cheaper ones that work too. I think OTC makes one for around $50, but that one is made in Taiwan, it works but it's not as nice as the one I showed you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Otc-Tools-62...132928&vxp=mtr
You can also do it by hitting the knuckle where the taper of the ball joint goes in, a nice dead blow hammer can loosen the ball joints. I rather use the tool but I'll use the hammer when in a pinch, be careful with the boots. Unfortunately in order to remove the hub it must be pressed out and re-installed with a new wheel bearing. If your wheel bearings were good when you pressed out the hub, then the hub can be re-used, but only if you're super careful in removing the inner race that gets stuck to the hub. You have to cut the inner race just before you go through all the way, and use a chisel to split it open, it should then slide right off. Also the knuckle is very odd shaped and it's a bit tricky to set it flat for you to press in the new hub and bearing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealey-Hydra...item1c4ae92a15
There's cheaper ones that work too. I think OTC makes one for around $50, but that one is made in Taiwan, it works but it's not as nice as the one I showed you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Otc-Tools-62...132928&vxp=mtr
You can also do it by hitting the knuckle where the taper of the ball joint goes in, a nice dead blow hammer can loosen the ball joints. I rather use the tool but I'll use the hammer when in a pinch, be careful with the boots. Unfortunately in order to remove the hub it must be pressed out and re-installed with a new wheel bearing. If your wheel bearings were good when you pressed out the hub, then the hub can be re-used, but only if you're super careful in removing the inner race that gets stuck to the hub. You have to cut the inner race just before you go through all the way, and use a chisel to split it open, it should then slide right off. Also the knuckle is very odd shaped and it's a bit tricky to set it flat for you to press in the new hub and bearing.
08-03-2015, 04:36 PM
#4
Any competent machine shop should be able to do it, just tell them to make sure everything goes in straight, and to support the inner race of the bearing when pressing in the hub. The rest should be common sense, which ironically is not so common anymore.
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