Hey guys im new to the site but i am attempting gather some info on intalling nitrous on my 2002 ap1. I recently bought a dry Efi kit. The kit i got came with two solenoids, the coupler they attach to, the nitrous relgulator, a t valve to attach to the fuel pressure reg., braided hose, the jet that goes into the intake, and a 10 lb. bottle. I am planning to run a 75 shot and i've got a few questions.

1. how safe is the dry kit? (I"ve heard safe as long as you don't spray a large amount)
2. Should if dial back my timing and if so how much?
3. the kit i got doesn't come with a fuel pressure safety switch or an rpm switch should i get one?
4. What is the weakest part of my Fuel system that i should consider updgrading?


I just want extra hp from time to time, but it must be safe dont plan on using it all the time. I plan on installing the system myself and want to make sure i'm 100% confident in the setup i have and do the install correctly.

 

Are you sure it's a dry kit? To me it sounds like you have a wet kit since you are tapping into the fuel, and there are 2 solenoids for a wet kit (one for nitrous, one for fuel). Is it possible to take some pics of the system? The other solenoid could be for the purge if it came with that, but it isn't what it seems like.

Anyways if it is a dry, it would be highly recommended to convert to a wet kit. Just do a basic google search for dry vs wet nitrous and you can read all about it. You can get a conversion kit for a couple hundred bucks.

I would also highly recommend a window RPM switch and a lean shut down switch. You can find these at dynotunenitrous.com for a decent price. The window switch will allow you to only spray at certain RPM's. For your AP1 I would do 4500-8800, that way you don't spray in too low of an RPM, and won't be spraying during shifts for better traction. With the lean shut down switch you can monitor your AFR's, and if you ever run to lean it will automatically alert you and shut your nitrous system down to prevent engine damage. Pretty cool little gadgets that can safe you.

A 75 shot is the most you can run on our cars before you have to start upgrading everything. If you want to do anything more than a 75 shot you will need an EMS and get it dyno tuned, an upgraded clutch, and some bigger injectors. There are quite a few people with decent size injectors with the stock fuel pump and run fine. I wouldnt even worry about any of that right now though since you say you want to do a 75 shot. All you need to do is install the nitrous kit along with the window and lean shut down switch and you can have fun all day with it.

Don't forget the electronic bottle opener either, it sucks that you will have to get out and turn on the bottle in the trunk everytime you want to use the nitrous. With the electronic opener you just flip a switch and it opens for you.

 

word appreciate the insight but I'm pretty sure its a dry kit an efi mustang kit with that came with two solenoids(i think) . And thanks for the info on the rpm window switch i will def. be buying that as well as the lean shut down switch. but idk about switching to wet i've read that the s2k is fine on a dry shot as long as you take the appropriate safety req. but def keeping it in mind. and would appreciate any other info from anyone.

 

its a dry kit. they attach to the FPR to increase fuel pressure and hopefully deliver a bit more fuel per injector pulse. wet kits tap not at the FPR (well they can but its not for vacuum) but in the fuel line itself.

1: you cant change ignition timing without some form of electronics on this car

2: if you are worried about upgrading your fuel system for this, you need to stop the install and buy the additional parts to run a wet kit. the second solenoid then can be used as a nitrous purge. looks, sounds and is cool

3: i wasnt aware that any kit came with a low fuel pressure shutoff/warning. If you reallllllly are worried like this, go get a fuel solenoid, small length of braided line, a few fittings and a new fogger. turn that dry kit into a wet kit.

 

Ahh thanks for confirming that. I was so confused since all the dry kits I have seen only have the nitrous solenoid and that's it. I would still highly recommend converting to wet. If I did a dry shot I would only do around a 50 shot to be on the safe side. A dry nitrous system pretty much just makes the car run super lean by injecting nitrous into it, and relies on the ECU to make the injectors supply the additional fuel needed, and it's just not that smart of a thing to do. With the wet kit you are supplying fuel with the nitrous and it mixes a lot better, and gives better gains than a dry system. All you have to do is tap into the fuel line with a T fitting, run a line from there to a fuel solenoid, then run the braided line from there to the wet nozzle into the intake.

 

ok thanks street_ruler but do u have an opinion as to the safety if i decide to stay with the dry shot? has anyone run a similar set up that i'm thinking about running? I've read that if i'm only spraying the 75 that it's within my fuel systems capability and it's not necessary to run the wet kit but i personally dont know.

 

The fuel system is capable of keeping up with a 75 shot, but I wouldnt even risk it over a 25hp and couple hundred dollar difference it is to run a wet kit safely.

 

my opinion is somewhat jaded when it comes to dry kits. I dont like them, i dont understand why people buy them, they arent that big of a money saver etc.

that aside, i personally wouldn't go with much more than a 50 shot. you have to remember its not about the shot size, its about power per hole. On a v8, a 50 shot is about 6-7hp per hole. on a 4cyl its 14 additional. and that in and of itself isnt dangerous its the sudden impact (smack you fist into your open palm for an example of how sudden nitrous brings on power) that destroys motors.

If it were me, my car ect, i would run this setup for a 50 shot.

2 step colder OEM plugs. do be careful with these as i think they are iridium and if they have the extended tips nitrous has a tendency to melt off the ends of those.
If you can control the amount of vacuum you send to the FPR, send as much as possible.
window RPM switch to start spray at 3000 - 3500prm (somewhere in there)
mount the injector relatively far from the TB. say, 20inches. this will allow the air to be cooled slightly before it gets to the manifold.
rising rate FPR.

and look at your plugs AFTER EVERY TIME YOU SPRAY. this will flush out a lean, rich or detonation scenario


nitrous is "tuned" by adjusting the nitrous mix or fuel mix manually at either the fogger or the nozzle (in your case nozzle, i also understand that this can me synonymous but just follow me on that one). i honestly dont think the fuel system (rail, pump ect) have any problem with keeping up with the demand its just a matter of the ECU knowing or not knowing to put more fuel in. how would it know?

 

^ Exactly. The only thing I would change about what you said is that I wouldnt ever spray under 4k RPM's. I think around 4000-4500 would be an ideal place to start spraying for an AP1, and maybe 3500-4000 RPM for ap2's.

 

that part i dont honestly think, matters too much. a difference of 500rpm isnt that much and at that point youve already got the car in gear, are off the clutch and wide open