O.K.a question regarding coolant fluid change...
Today,before putting my S to sleep for the winter,went to my local mechanic,to change oil+filter,sparks plugs(torqued to 22 ps),and change coolant fluid,(Honda blue)
I was a bit worried,after reading,about coolant fluid,bleeding,getting the air out ,etc...
My mechanic,just drained the fluid out,and used some kind of vacuum pump to get the air out of the cooling system,and with a hose attached at the other end,siphoned the fluid in the cooling system,until the rad was full.
Every thing works O.K.hot air from heating system,3 bars,no overheating,etc...
Did anyone hear of that method of doing coolant change ?..is it O.K.???
1-There is about 1 inch of coolant,in the expansion tank;Can I add Red Line water wetter to bring the level to themedian mark,or should I just add water??..or is it O.K.to leave it like that ???
Thank's.
Emil.
I was a bit worried,after reading,about coolant fluid,bleeding,getting the air out ,etc...
My mechanic,just drained the fluid out,and used some kind of vacuum pump to get the air out of the cooling system,and with a hose attached at the other end,siphoned the fluid in the cooling system,until the rad was full.
Every thing works O.K.hot air from heating system,3 bars,no overheating,etc...
Did anyone hear of that method of doing coolant change ?..is it O.K.???
1-There is about 1 inch of coolant,in the expansion tank;Can I add Red Line water wetter to bring the level to themedian mark,or should I just add water??..or is it O.K.to leave it like that ???
Thank's.
Emil.
If it blows hot, and heats up normally to 3 bars (AP1) then you're probably fine. I wouldn't do anything. I wouldn't add water (and if you do, remember it's distilled water, not tap). Honda coolant is already 50/50 premix so you'd be diluting it more which will reduce your freezing protection.
He (mechanic) didn't open the bleeders at all?
Just to confirm there is no air in the system?
One on the intake manifold, one on the alu tube close to the firewall.
IMO you don't want to open the bleeder on the alu tube when the coolant system is pressurized (HOT) as its only a rubber cap.
For the other one you need a socket & extension - can't remember the size.
If you open it a little - engine warm - and you hear Shhhhh, there was air.
If the heater in the cabin stays hot, even at idle for a while, it's most likely ok.
Just to confirm there is no air in the system?
One on the intake manifold, one on the alu tube close to the firewall.
IMO you don't want to open the bleeder on the alu tube when the coolant system is pressurized (HOT) as its only a rubber cap.
For the other one you need a socket & extension - can't remember the size.
If you open it a little - engine warm - and you hear Shhhhh, there was air.
If the heater in the cabin stays hot, even at idle for a while, it's most likely ok.
If you have good heat and only 3 bars on temp gauge that is a good sign. When the car is totally cold open the rad cap and see if the fluid is filled up to the base of the rad neck, if not then add more coolant. Then close up the cap and fill the overflow tank to the proper level.
Being in Canada as winter approaches I would not add water to the tank. I would not use water wetter with Honda coolant either, it creates a brownish sludge when mixed with Honda coolant and it tends to fall out of suspension. I see no benefit to using it in a street application. Water Wetter was designed to be used with straight water for racing applications, that's the only place I would use it. I will admit to trying it in the past, and I didn't like the results.
Being in Canada as winter approaches I would not add water to the tank. I would not use water wetter with Honda coolant either, it creates a brownish sludge when mixed with Honda coolant and it tends to fall out of suspension. I see no benefit to using it in a street application. Water Wetter was designed to be used with straight water for racing applications, that's the only place I would use it. I will admit to trying it in the past, and I didn't like the results.
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