They send you a container to hold the sample.

go here: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Thanks for the post. I never thought of doing this. Did not realize how reasonable the price for a test like this was.

Virgin oil analysis shows Chevron Supreme SM/GF4 is very high in Moly.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...c;f=11;t=000381

Chevron Supreme is conventional oil, it is sold in Costco a membership warehouse in USA, I don't think there is Costco in Nertherland. It can be bought many auto part stores in US but with higher price than at Costco. Texaco Halvoline SM/GF4 conventional oil is very high in Moly too.

I think you like to use 0W30 oil for your next oil change, this grade is only available in synthetic formular.

well, it looks like my motor oil is going to have extra, EXTRA Moly... as I just bought a 1qt bottle of Mr. Moly Engine Oil Supplement.

http://www.mrmoly.com/engine_oil_supplement.html

I had theorized that because I left this batch of oil in my car for 10 months, that perhaps the supposed acidification of the oil may have cleansed off some of the moly I had added some 25K miles before.

thanks for posting that link. shows just how true my sig is. (about Ignorance being expensive. )

edit: you'll have to scroll to my posting at the top of the page to see my sig.

TR-S2K Posted on Sep 4 2006, 11:47 PM
Thanks for the link.
(I should have thought of that too.. being a registered guest at BITOG)


How did you read my mind?
(or is it from my other posts about oil )
I allready have a 12-pack of Shell 0W-30 waiting to go in as soon as I reach 10k km on the oil (Shell 0W-40) thats in now.
(and doing an UOA too )
(and posting results too )

I should get a UOA for my S seeing as we have completely different driving habit's as well as myself using M1, so it would be interesting to see a comparison.

I'm no oil expert, so I'm guessing that a 0W-30 oil has more hydrocarbons bonded into longer chains and that through time in the s2k motor it will shear down to a 10W oil?

I think I can still buy 5W-30 Chevron dino oil at Costco.

tritium_pie Posted on Sep 5 2006, 02:54 PM
First, I do think (IMO ) the F20C (F22C) isn't that hard on its oil.
Honda went through a lot of R&D to get rid of friction to make the revs possible.
Roller rockers, FRM cylinder walls, and others I do not remember.

Second, it depends on the quality of the oil.
HTHS numbers (High Temp High Shear) are important (more is better).
But a high number to begin with (and degrades fast) doesnt help.
Oil needs to "stay in grade".
Oils used for longer drain intervals usually have those qualities.
Most of the times (maybe even all of the time) they are synthetic oils.

Third, I've been reading on BITOG that synthetic oils work "the other way around".
IOW, a syn 0W-30 is made out of a 30 weight with viscosity index improvers that make it behave like a 0W at cold temps.
Basicly: make it flow at cold and VERY cold temps.
If those VII's "wear" you end up with a "straight" 30 weight oil.
Dino 0W-30 (allthough I have not ever seen a dino with such a viscosity range) would be "build" from a 0 weight oil with VII to make it behave like a 30 weight when warm. When the VII "wear" you end up with a 0 weight.
Now THATS scary!




P.S. I can't wait to do the UOA on my 0W-40 oil
But I'm going to.

This thread was extremely helpful, I didn't even know that such a service existed. I just got my S (3300km on it in ~3 weeks), and I'm going to start getting analyized from the first oil change.
This is sweet