Oil Leaking from bolt on front of head
#11
Moderator
Loosen bolt just enough to expose o-ring, do not remove bolt all the way.
Pick out old o-ring, install new o-ring.
Coat the new o-ring with oil with your finger, tighten bolt properly.
Pick out old o-ring, install new o-ring.
Coat the new o-ring with oil with your finger, tighten bolt properly.
#13
Registered User
theres a o-ring that needs to be replaced (part# 15302-PE0-300). loosen the bolt just enough to get the old one off and put the new one on, do not take it all the way out, it holds the timing chain sprocket, torque to 36ft/lbs replace asap though.
i would prob just go to the dealer for something this cheap if its in stock but if you have to wait for them to order it i would get it on majestic to save the buck
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
i would prob just go to the dealer for something this cheap if its in stock but if you have to wait for them to order it i would get it on majestic to save the buck
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
So, 91301-PCX-003 is actually the correct P/N. 16mm x 1.5
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...ng-oil-832154/
My old o-ring wasn't ripped but instead of looking like a torus, it looked like a flattened torus which surely wasn't applying enough compression against its mating surfaces, hence a slow leak. It was also much more rigid and not nearly as pliable as a new one. Billman, Soviet, and MP2K to the rescue!
Torus (Good)
Flattened Torus (Bad)
I hope MP2K won't mind for stealing his picture, but this picture really helped me understand how to do this procedure. This is as far as the bolt needs to be backed out to do this job. Then replace o-ring and torque to 36 ft-lb or 432 in-lb. I use a smaller torque wrench that reads in in-lb for jobs like these to get better torque accuracy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post