marshman

AEM Series 2, walbro 255, ID 1000, Comptech supercharged with novi 1000.
Long story short, I swapped in the stock ecu and got it to prime the pump, swapped back to AEM Series 2 and started the car. Now the stock ecu won’t even prime the pump. Obviously all the fuses and relays are good. Even swapped my main relay into another car and started it. I have walbro 255 and only had it about a year or two but the car barely even gets driven. Maybe a couple thousand miles since installed. I don’t have a meter but using a test light the fuel pump power wire isn’t getting power. Sending unit wire and both grounds in the harness are good, just no pump power. It was priming/starting first try all week but for a month or two I’d have to wait a bit (15-30 seconds) after shut off to get it to prime during key cycle.

This is super annoying and so intermittent. I’ve tried/tested everything I can think of. Any ideas? At this point I just wanna take a gas can and a match to the car, but I bet I couldn’t even get a fire started lol

windhund116

"Swapped back to AEM Series 2 and started the car."

Does the AEM S2 still work? Why do you want to go back to the OEM ECU?

Thanks!

afzan

Try the AEM base map?

honda4eva89

Is the green immobilizer going off after 2 seconds of doing key on?

marshman

My car won’t start with that, I’m supercharged, id1000 walbro 255

stays flashing with stock ecu. AEM deletes immobilizer though

just used the oem ecu to prime the pump since ems wouldnt




so from even more research, I’ve found AEM acts up when the battery is low or low..ish. I’m pretty sure that’s what’s happening.

honda4eva89

You said it stays flashing with the stock ECU. Which means that the fuel pump is not being energized due to the immobilizer not seeing the correct key.

Your purpose of using the stock ECU was to make the fuel pump prime but it will not do that unless the immobilizer sees the key it is programmed for. That would bring you back to square 1.

Billman250