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Removing/disconnecting knock sensor and question on driveshaft bolts

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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 04:34 AM
  #1  
seansniper's Avatar
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Default Removing/disconnecting knock sensor and question on driveshaft bolts

I have started trying to replace my clutch and after reading around alot of people said to disconnect the knock sensor as it can break. Do people just disconnect the wire or do I need to take the whole sensor out? I am up to the part were I need to take the starter bolt out so I figured I would ask before I go any further. Also what is the easiest way to locate it/disconnect or remove it? I tried shining a flashlight under the throttle body and I could not seem to see it??

Also for the part on removing the drive shaft allen keys, whats the easiest way to remove them? I am going out to the store later so if there is a tool that would make it a lot easier then I will buy that or should I just use regular allen keys?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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The Allen bolts just suck to take out hope you have a good set of vice grips just in case

I replaced mine with regular bolts
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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From: Sacramento
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yes, yes they are. I end up rounding off the bolts with the allen sockets, so i used a dremel to cut it, then replace it will some regulator bolts
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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There's no point in just disconnecting the wire from the knock sensor. That's not the part that gets in the way. In the following pics, you see the broken sensor. The connection is just a single wire. It's the green part that snaps off when the long extension bows when you apply torque to it to break the top starter bolt free.





Besides, if you can't see the sensor, you're not going to get your tools in there either. If you can get to it, you'll need a large, deep socket. It'll be tough to even get a rachet handle in there so you're most likely to have to unscrew it with hand force. The best guarantee against breaking the sensor is to disassemble the intake manifold brace so the long extension has a more direct shot at the starter bolt. When it's nearly straight, it won't bow. This will add about an hour on each end of the job. Also, with the manifold brace out of the way, you will be able to clearly see the sensor and the top starter bolt. Otherwise, you take your chances. The sensor is a simple device but it's not cheap and it's a bugger to get at.

As for the allen bolts in the propshaft, the idea with most bolts on the car is to seat the tool well and as squarely as possible and then "snap" it to get it to break free. Treating the bolts with Liquid Wrench prior to doing the work is also a must. It you just turn the bolt with increasing force, that's what rounds off the head.
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