I recently put in stainless lines and ended up stripping the bolt between the passenger brake hard line and the brake hose (tip - vice grips work but a 10mm flare wrench is the right tool). I'm going to replace the hard line and was wondering if anyone had any tips for the install. Mainly looking for tips on how to disconnect from the master cylinder side and routing issues. Doesn't look like too many people have done this before but I'm sure I'm not the first either.

 

What line of the four are you going to replace? They all route different. They were a PIA to install with nothing else in the rolling shell when I built the car. I can think of how to do it in a built car, but I might just cut and re-flare the end to same the effort.

 

Right (passenger) front. I imagine that I'm lucky I didn't F' up the rears, but drivers side would be easier. I would just reflare, but since I'm selling the car, I want to make it perfect. I guess it's still an option though as I'll still be honest with the seller and it really shouldn't matter. But if I can do it right, I'd like to.

 

I would cut it back and couple it to a new piece. As long as you flare it right it will be rock solid. The best spot would be near an anchor to help hold the small amount of additional weight.

 

The line is the hardest of the two IIRC, it was a PIA to install with just a few things bolted back into the car. IIRC, I had to remove a few things to get it in and the motor was not even in the car.

 

The rears would be easier, but I think they would need to have the rear sub frame removed. They are two piece lines. A short one from the ABS pump to a valve on the firewall, and than another from the valve to the soft lines.

but you have got to have the hardest one to replace with the passenger side. The heater lines are in the way, the fuse box is in the way. They don't even lists the shop time to replace one of these. I don't have heater lines at all and I am not sure I could do it. If I was going to try, I will pull the battery, fuse box and heater lines out of the car. From there you might be able to start the wheel side first, lay the line behind the motor and get the ABS pump end connected. But I think I would build a new short hardline that matched the bends in the wheel well and slice it in under the fuse box.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I think I'll just cut and flare. Would have loved to do it right, but it doesn't look like there's any drawback to cutting/flaring. Glad I asked ahead of time before I got too deep into it.

 

Oh yeah, is there a place I can order the hardline screw from? I don't think Honda sells it separately. Or would it be easiest for me to order the line and cut to get the screw?