slanguage

For MF towels I use Micro-Restore. I wash and rinse them in the maching machine using warm water and also set it to add the second rinse cycle.

I dry them on the medium setting on the dryer. NO fabric sheet. The fabric sheet can affect the absorbancy of the towels, and you will notice streaking, like when you clean glass.

I know some people use detergents like Tide, Woolite, etc., but when I invest good money in quality towels, I want to take care of them the best as possible.

aznives3

how do you deal with your pads slanguage? Both during and after detailing?

slanguage

During the detail, if a pad gets too dirty, I just switch to a clean one. I have probably over 40 pads.

After a detail, I use the DP pad cleaner, let them soak for an hour, clean/rinse them in cool water, and put them on a clothes rack I use and let them dry. When you let them dry, make sure to leave the velcro side facing up!

aznives3

Just went through Wes R's detail of the black RSX on the 2nd page here and im impressed! What makes me even happier is that he was able to achieve that with M83 (although with a rotary), but still, shows that this stuff can work and is quite a bit more affordable.

One thing i did notice from his detail though was rock chips in the front bumper/hood.

I've got quite a few "pits" and rock chips in my S's front end, is there any precautions to doing a 2 step polish on these? Since you need to tape up any edges etc when detailing, wouldn't the edges around the rock chip have the chance to get ruined from the polish/machine?

I was originally thinking of following the writeup here of the guy who did all the paint chip fixes on his Red S with touch up paint, sandpaper, and his PC, but it does seem like alot of work, and im still a bit scared to take sandpaper to my paint.

Can anyone chime in on these new questions?

slanguage

Scary Paint chip repair thread was awesome. I am afraid to take sandpaper to my paint as well, but I might try it out this year.

I think since you are using a PC, you shouldn't be too worried, unless the paint around the chips edges are lifting up, then more paint will flake off.

akimel

All I know is that the experts usually say that a rotary is needed to remove well the marks left by wetsanding. I'm sure that there are those who have worked with a PC effectively to remove wetsanding marks, and perhaps I could too--but I sure ain't going to experiment on my Luthien.

aznives3

another change of plans here guys!...im leaning towards getting the Sonus SFX pads instead of the LC CCS pads, i think i may like the flat pad Sonus' better, as i've read that the CCS pads can be quite a PITA....is there any harm in using the Sonus' on the Flex DA vs the LC's? There is a little bit of a savings here too as well...

and do i have this correct?
Yellow sonus = orange LC/somewhat yellow LC
white sonus = white LC/Green LC
Blue Sonus = black LC

if all is good with the sonus pads, ill be home later tonight and finally place my order...i feel less guilty about dropping the money on it now, because my birthday is in a week and i can just tell myself it was a present to myself and my rides can't wait for my wacko badge!

MuttGrunt

i have no experience with the sonus pads and haven't read TOO much about them either. take into account when people talk about the "problems" of the CCS pads- they're talking about very minor things, but trying to make sure u know the only very slight downfalls. with the majority of details on here done in the past year or so having CCS pads used - theres no doubt they work and work well.
read around a little and if they sound good - they'll probably work fine!