Changed my Starter Motor
05-09-2014, 01:18 PM
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Changed my Starter Motor
So my starter motor was making the typical grinding noise occasionally when cold; seems fairly common on here. I know Honda have a refurb procedure but I bought a brand new Honda unit.
Anyways, I was fitting it myself and searched a alot on this and other forums. There is surprisingly little advice on this topic so thought I would share my experience.
First off, the Honda manual grossly over simplifies this job. It misses steps out and also asks you to do stuff not required like remove the belt tensioner.
I used the following faq as a guide but found a few more tweaks. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...f=133&t=356924
Below is the major steps from that post; I have added parts in in brackets/below the step that I found from my install. Hope it helps someone in future.
1) Remove Intake
(Note if your intake has been on 10 years this can be difficult).
2) Remove Accessory Belt
3) Remove top bolt of Alternator, losen lower and rotate away so you can get to the top starter bolt. (see any tranny removal thread) Remove bolt with long extension.
(I found I had to remove the alternator. I would recommend removing it completey as it eases access greatly).
----
4) Remove intake support bracket (black bar) bolt (14mm on back/top of intake manifold) - Push water hose out of clip.
(This is required; not sure why Honda do not state this is required, I doubt it can be done without doing this step).
5) Jack up car, put on stands. (I did front only)
6) Unclip wire harnesses from intake support bracket, remove lower 14mm bolt and remove.
(Also disconnect the two small ground wires to allow the starter to come through the gap you are creating).
7) Remove power cable from back of starter. 12mm under rubber boot.
(Remove the batter to help access here, also removing the battery helps access to the upper starter bolt).
8) Remove other cable (spade connector - above power cable - you can't really see it - it pulls straight off, don't need to press anything)
(CAREFUL: this is connected to the knock sensor).
9) Note the position of the knock sensor - the cable that you just took off with the spade connector shares wires with the knock sensor so its easy to spot. It has a green plastic ring on it too. The knock sensor is plastic and brittle. Don't break it. Seriously, its easy to do and a bitch to replace when the engine is in the car. (I didn't this time, but have broken it on other engine swaps).
10) Remove both 10mm bolts to fuel line bracket on frame where the hardline connects to the flexible one. This will give you more wiggle room to get the starter out.
(It does not move much but it does help so would recommend this step).
11) Remove 14mm lower starter bolt. I used a 3/8's breaker bar and deep socket. It was the perfect length. Starter is now loose.
(Also remove the upper, use a 2ft extension and knuckle joint. Tape the knuckle joint to restrict movement. Someone can watch you locate the upper bolt if you have removed the battery. The upper bolt has a red mark on it).
12) Back starter out of hole in block while paying attention to the knock sensor.
(Take time to get the starter out, if your careful you can avoid touching the knock sensor).
13) Twist and rotate starter to get it out. Takes a little time and finesse. Don't forget about that knock sensor.
You will have to push pipes out the way.
14) Reverse steps to put it all back together. Getting the spade connector back on is a little bit of a pain because you can't see it. But just lay there on your back and fiddle with it. You'll get it eventually.
Biggest thing I found is people on the forum state you don't need the upper starter bolt. Thats got to be wrong, the upper starter bolt is a substantial sized bolt; there is no way its there for the sake of it. Also its easy to put back in so not sure why a lot of members don't. Just put a piece of paper on the bolt head so the socket holds it as you feed it in with the extension.
The jobs not rocket science but it is fiddly. Someone good with tools could do it in 2 hours.
Anyway hope this helps someone looking to do this in the future.
Mike
Anyways, I was fitting it myself and searched a alot on this and other forums. There is surprisingly little advice on this topic so thought I would share my experience.
First off, the Honda manual grossly over simplifies this job. It misses steps out and also asks you to do stuff not required like remove the belt tensioner.
I used the following faq as a guide but found a few more tweaks. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...f=133&t=356924
Below is the major steps from that post; I have added parts in in brackets/below the step that I found from my install. Hope it helps someone in future.
1) Remove Intake
(Note if your intake has been on 10 years this can be difficult).
2) Remove Accessory Belt
3) Remove top bolt of Alternator, losen lower and rotate away so you can get to the top starter bolt. (see any tranny removal thread) Remove bolt with long extension.
(I found I had to remove the alternator. I would recommend removing it completey as it eases access greatly).
----
4) Remove intake support bracket (black bar) bolt (14mm on back/top of intake manifold) - Push water hose out of clip.
(This is required; not sure why Honda do not state this is required, I doubt it can be done without doing this step).
5) Jack up car, put on stands. (I did front only)
6) Unclip wire harnesses from intake support bracket, remove lower 14mm bolt and remove.
(Also disconnect the two small ground wires to allow the starter to come through the gap you are creating).
7) Remove power cable from back of starter. 12mm under rubber boot.
(Remove the batter to help access here, also removing the battery helps access to the upper starter bolt).
8) Remove other cable (spade connector - above power cable - you can't really see it - it pulls straight off, don't need to press anything)
(CAREFUL: this is connected to the knock sensor).
9) Note the position of the knock sensor - the cable that you just took off with the spade connector shares wires with the knock sensor so its easy to spot. It has a green plastic ring on it too. The knock sensor is plastic and brittle. Don't break it. Seriously, its easy to do and a bitch to replace when the engine is in the car. (I didn't this time, but have broken it on other engine swaps).
10) Remove both 10mm bolts to fuel line bracket on frame where the hardline connects to the flexible one. This will give you more wiggle room to get the starter out.
(It does not move much but it does help so would recommend this step).
11) Remove 14mm lower starter bolt. I used a 3/8's breaker bar and deep socket. It was the perfect length. Starter is now loose.
(Also remove the upper, use a 2ft extension and knuckle joint. Tape the knuckle joint to restrict movement. Someone can watch you locate the upper bolt if you have removed the battery. The upper bolt has a red mark on it).
12) Back starter out of hole in block while paying attention to the knock sensor.
(Take time to get the starter out, if your careful you can avoid touching the knock sensor).
13) Twist and rotate starter to get it out. Takes a little time and finesse. Don't forget about that knock sensor.
You will have to push pipes out the way.
14) Reverse steps to put it all back together. Getting the spade connector back on is a little bit of a pain because you can't see it. But just lay there on your back and fiddle with it. You'll get it eventually.
Biggest thing I found is people on the forum state you don't need the upper starter bolt. Thats got to be wrong, the upper starter bolt is a substantial sized bolt; there is no way its there for the sake of it. Also its easy to put back in so not sure why a lot of members don't. Just put a piece of paper on the bolt head so the socket holds it as you feed it in with the extension.
The jobs not rocket science but it is fiddly. Someone good with tools could do it in 2 hours.
Anyway hope this helps someone looking to do this in the future.
Mike
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