Quick question on amp wiring
Spent most of today installing my new amp (thanks Punchdrunk), but I've hit a snag trying to wire the doors. I've been looking at THIS GUIDE but I can't see where the door loom enters the car. Behind the kick panels on the passenger side is the ECU and on the drivers side is a whole load of wiring and the bonnet release. Does all this gubbins need to be removed to expose the door loom?
Ack good luck with that - i re-used the OEM wiring and joined the amplified wires to it using the harness adaptor. I couldn't see an easy way to get into both doors and for the power i intended on using it really didn't seem worth the effort.
Comparison of the pathetic standard wiring vs Decentish stuff:

I ran mine from the boot, where I insatlled the Amp, along the sill, past th door hinge, and then through the door.
If you want any hope of installing the wire, use soapy water inside the boot (I used a hand wash dispenser with fairly liquid/water mix) and then the wire will slide through

I ran mine from the boot, where I insatlled the Amp, along the sill, past th door hinge, and then through the door.
If you want any hope of installing the wire, use soapy water inside the boot (I used a hand wash dispenser with fairly liquid/water mix) and then the wire will slide through
The OE stuff is a bit thin but the human ear would struggle to notice a difference when the car is moving unless you're spending a LOT of money on speakers, source and amplification.
Sure if access was easier it does no harm to change it but the doors are a royal pain to get at. There's a foam block insert in the drivers side that is easy enough t remove, the ECU on the otherside is not due to security bolts in the way.
Your call how much work you want to make of it but having seen the graphs from my Imprint session with Lovegroova, I can't see a need for it.
I am pushing up to 2x180rms down those cables and it's fine. At FULL max continuous power @ 12V ( something you won't ever do) i'd be drawing in theory 15amps, at 14.4V it would be 12.8 amps. Check the cars cabling, the OEM cable is more than capable at the length run we're talking about.
Sure if access was easier it does no harm to change it but the doors are a royal pain to get at. There's a foam block insert in the drivers side that is easy enough t remove, the ECU on the otherside is not due to security bolts in the way.
Your call how much work you want to make of it but having seen the graphs from my Imprint session with Lovegroova, I can't see a need for it.
I am pushing up to 2x180rms down those cables and it's fine. At FULL max continuous power @ 12V ( something you won't ever do) i'd be drawing in theory 15amps, at 14.4V it would be 12.8 amps. Check the cars cabling, the OEM cable is more than capable at the length run we're talking about.
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murrays2k
S2000 Electronics
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May 29, 2002 07:27 PM



