AC line Relocation / Wire Tuck / Engine Bay cleanup
05-29-2012, 04:42 PM
#1
AC line Relocation / Wire Tuck / Engine Bay cleanup
Good evening.
I have been planning out my attack on my engine bay for quite some time now. I have most of the parts required for the battery and fuse box relocation. I plan on undertaking those this weekend. In the meantime, I would like to start planning out how I am going to relocate my AC lines.
I have read many threads on how owners do this. A few of them purchase the $250+ relocation kit while other fabricate their own lines. I am more of an 'anti-kit' type guy. Yes, sometimes it ends up costing me more money, time, and frustration. However, I learn a lot in the process. In this case, if all goes well, I would like to apply the AN lines to much more than just my AC.
So i'll get to it. I have some questions that are based off of some things I have read on here on how to (better yet, the best way to) do this.
Plan A:
Remove AC lines and save all the fittings. I plan on deleting the hump at the cross member (underneath the intake) and just running directly from the firewall to the compressor. The other line that goes from the firewall to the receiver (the part right in front of the radiator), will have to be cut also. I will use this fitting, along with the others. I will take these to a welding shop and have them weld threads or adapters onto the ends of them. This will allow me to hook up my new lines that I can route wherever I like.
What I need from you guys to make this happen:
Plan B:
I don't have one of these yet.
I did however find this thread while I was looking for some other material for this post. It's very old but still relevant. He essentially did exactly what I want to do but left out what type of connectors/adapters he used or where they were purchased.
Anyways. Thanks in advance.
Regardless of the feedback or help; I am hoping I put together some of the information that's out there on the forums in case someone else stumbles upon this later.
--Matt
I have been planning out my attack on my engine bay for quite some time now. I have most of the parts required for the battery and fuse box relocation. I plan on undertaking those this weekend. In the meantime, I would like to start planning out how I am going to relocate my AC lines.
I have read many threads on how owners do this. A few of them purchase the $250+ relocation kit while other fabricate their own lines. I am more of an 'anti-kit' type guy. Yes, sometimes it ends up costing me more money, time, and frustration. However, I learn a lot in the process. In this case, if all goes well, I would like to apply the AN lines to much more than just my AC.
So i'll get to it. I have some questions that are based off of some things I have read on here on how to (better yet, the best way to) do this.
- AN sizes
- What size AN lines are being used? I have seen some owners using -6AN. This seems small to me.
- What type of AN lines should be used?
- Do you use the same size for both the high and low? If not why and which sizes?
- If you use AN lines how to add a charging port?
- Converting current fittings at the firewall and on the compressor to AN
- What is the best way to do this?
- Can you use some sort of flare adapter or tube mate?
- Welding?
- Can use a 'Weld in fitting', weld it onto the current fittings on the firewall and compressor?
- The kit shown here, looks to use what's referred to as 'Barrier Hose'.
- Is there any reason this hose is used over AN lines?
- Can these hoses be cut, crimped, and fabricated at home?
Wire Tuck - Q&A , FAQ Author: Tech7427 - Here is a thread I have read many times and have used for reference.
"- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core."
"last night i removed the A/C lines and i am goin to cut the hardlines where they come off the drier/evap/compressor and get -6 fittings welded on. That will kick off the a/c line re routing. i am not very concerned about that so it will be some time before i get them done."
On page 3, he explains how he converted the brake master cylinder lines to AN with some Earl male-male adapters. He then ruins my day by stating he is just going to do an AC delete instead of fabricating the lines.
"- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core."
"last night i removed the A/C lines and i am goin to cut the hardlines where they come off the drier/evap/compressor and get -6 fittings welded on. That will kick off the a/c line re routing. i am not very concerned about that so it will be some time before i get them done."
On page 3, he explains how he converted the brake master cylinder lines to AN with some Earl male-male adapters. He then ruins my day by stating he is just going to do an AC delete instead of fabricating the lines.
Heater valve relocate, wire tuck, custom wiper reservoir Author: S2k-F8 - Another thread I have read deep in too.
Although most of the relocation on the first page is dealing with the heater lines, other than PSI, it's all relatively the same stuff (unless i'm missing something). What's important about this member is this. Look at the fitting on the firewall below.
[attachment=21226:IMAG0277.jpg]
You can see that they have been modified and prepped for what looks like AN connectors. Am I right?
Although most of the relocation on the first page is dealing with the heater lines, other than PSI, it's all relatively the same stuff (unless i'm missing something). What's important about this member is this. Look at the fitting on the firewall below.
[attachment=21226:IMAG0277.jpg]
You can see that they have been modified and prepped for what looks like AN connectors. Am I right?
Wire tuck in progress Author: Suzuka_Joe - Another helpful thread dealing with tucking.
Here I learn the correct way to extend the wires for a fuse box relocation. Good stuff.
The only difference is I am going to use a Junction box/block instead of running 3 cables to the trunk (where the battery will be). I am hoping this works as intended.
Tips on how to make good AN lines:
"Pretty straightforward. I actually use a little vasoline on the inside of the rubber to help the fitting slide in a little easier, as long as the line is cut straight, shouldn't be a problem. I wrap the fitting with tape, get it started, and either put one end in a vice, or just use two crescent wrenches if you don't have the an wrenches ($)."
Here I learn the correct way to extend the wires for a fuse box relocation. Good stuff.
The only difference is I am going to use a Junction box/block instead of running 3 cables to the trunk (where the battery will be). I am hoping this works as intended.
Tips on how to make good AN lines:
"Pretty straightforward. I actually use a little vasoline on the inside of the rubber to help the fitting slide in a little easier, as long as the line is cut straight, shouldn't be a problem. I wrap the fitting with tape, get it started, and either put one end in a vice, or just use two crescent wrenches if you don't have the an wrenches ($)."
Plan A:
Remove AC lines and save all the fittings. I plan on deleting the hump at the cross member (underneath the intake) and just running directly from the firewall to the compressor. The other line that goes from the firewall to the receiver (the part right in front of the radiator), will have to be cut also. I will use this fitting, along with the others. I will take these to a welding shop and have them weld threads or adapters onto the ends of them. This will allow me to hook up my new lines that I can route wherever I like.
What I need from you guys to make this happen:
- Appropriate size (diameter) and type of AN line I should use.
- I was doing my pricing on this website. Silicone Intakes.com
- Appropriate adapters I should use
- How to add the charging valves
- Can I use this? [attachment=21227:34c133_3bw.jpg]
Plan B:
I don't have one of these yet.
I did however find this thread while I was looking for some other material for this post. It's very old but still relevant. He essentially did exactly what I want to do but left out what type of connectors/adapters he used or where they were purchased.
Anyways. Thanks in advance.
Regardless of the feedback or help; I am hoping I put together some of the information that's out there on the forums in case someone else stumbles upon this later.--Matt
05-29-2012, 04:50 PM
#2
Registered User
Personally I would suggest the lines from doolots performance. They fit perfectly and are basically invisible once installed. I have had them one my turbo car now for over 2 years with zero problems. If your all about making your own I can dig it, but it sure is nice to just bolt them on and go.
05-29-2012, 05:15 PM
#3
Personally I would suggest the lines from doolots performance. They fit perfectly and are basically invisible once installed. I have had them one my turbo car now for over 2 years with zero problems. If your all about making your own I can dig it, but it sure is nice to just bolt them on and go.
Do you happen to know if they still keep the AC line hump over the cross member? What is the point of running it there instead of directly to the compressor?
[attachment=21231:gallery_99105_34933_8267252634ca7 4c16991cf.jpg]
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