Need working AP1 bottom end or full engine
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From: Ft. Myers/Cape Coral
Originally Posted by Willie Gee,Nov 4 2008, 03:08 PM
from what i understand, which isn't much, putting an AP2 motor in an AP1 isn't all that bad. I know Billman250 has done it time and time again, and he keeps and uses the AP1 ECU.
A friend of mine did that exact same swap and his car was a monster!Do It!
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From: Clearwater, FL
The work is done and I get my car back tomorrow. Time to reveal all. Regretfully nothing radical was done. We (my mechanic and I) seriously spent some time looking at AP2 (2.2L) swaps or stroker kits. However to do them properly required the addition of fuel management so the engine wouldn't lean out. And I was all ready to pull the trigger on that, but ...
When the engine was pulled we discovered that the 80K mile clutch was ready for replacement. Also the stupid Honda plastic endtanks on the radiator were disintegrating (I've got a wonderful photo of that!).
The price of a new clutch and radiator shot down my budget; that was the cost of the fuel management I'd need.
Of course my 80K mile hoses all needed replacing too. And since we had everything apart and were replacing the clutch ...
So we bought a factory short block which was nice because it came with a new oil pump, timing chain and, yes, oil cooler. We also bought a Mishimoto aluminum radiator with the matching silicone hose kit, an Exedy clutch and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, my one indulgence.
All other hoses under the hood were replaced I believe, as were the spark plugs.
Also, quoting from my mechanic:
also
[QUOTE]PS. when I checked tolerances in the head everything was within "new" specification, with the valve job and cleanup and the required valve adjustment. it should be like a completely new engine. but you have to remember it needs to be broken in like a new engine.
When the engine was pulled we discovered that the 80K mile clutch was ready for replacement. Also the stupid Honda plastic endtanks on the radiator were disintegrating (I've got a wonderful photo of that!).
The price of a new clutch and radiator shot down my budget; that was the cost of the fuel management I'd need.
Of course my 80K mile hoses all needed replacing too. And since we had everything apart and were replacing the clutch ...
So we bought a factory short block which was nice because it came with a new oil pump, timing chain and, yes, oil cooler. We also bought a Mishimoto aluminum radiator with the matching silicone hose kit, an Exedy clutch and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, my one indulgence.
All other hoses under the hood were replaced I believe, as were the spark plugs.
Also, quoting from my mechanic:
Upon Pre assembly inspection, I did notice quite a bit of carbon buildup on the Valves, ports, and EGR circuit. Felt it was best to Clean and rework the head. This included New Valve Guide Seals. (Which were included in the seal kit we already purchased). Also I did have to Remove the Valves to get clear access to the Exhaust ports. I fully cleaned and verified tolerances within the Head and valve train assembly. then re-lapped the valves and seats
[QUOTE]PS. when I checked tolerances in the head everything was within "new" specification, with the valve job and cleanup and the required valve adjustment. it should be like a completely new engine. but you have to remember it needs to be broken in like a new engine.
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