so are you going to use the same dash cluster and just shift at eight grand? also with the possibility of low boost, any thoughts of a supercharger? dont they usually run around 7 or so?

 

I thought about putting an AP2 cluster in it but it's not really fair to the next owner since the mileage stays with the cluster, meaning my mileage would be incorrect. So I'll probably stay with an AP1 cluster and just shift early. I'm not planning to run any boost with my current setup. As for the future, who knows. I can't seem to stop myself from changing and looking for the next thing, so it's completely possible that I get tired of running n/a and rip it apart to run boost. But it's an all or nothing thing for me.

 

thats cool dude, even if you did put an ap2 cluster in, once you pull the ap1 cluster out it could just sit with the original motor while the second 2.4L is in there, and if things changed and the original motor goes in, the original cluster could go in too. i'm thinking the modifry shift beeper would prolly work pretty good to beep at a lower redline to keep the ap1 cluster though. i'm pullin for you and the motor to turn out awesome. if it does this will be my next project, although i think i would also be looking to throw a supercharger on it to keep low amounts of boost. what would you have to change to run boost? also, how did you come to the conclusion that the redline would be 8000? (please dont read as criticism, i honestly do not know how to figure that out) sorry again for asking so many questions and thanks for taking the time to reply to them.

 

Thanks man! You could probably run a low amount of boost like it is, with a slightly (1mm) thicker headgasket or just oem H22A pistons. I believe the oem pistons are 11:1 where mine are 11.5:1. This is all dependent on the tune, of course. As far as the redline goes, I talked to someone with an IP 2.5L (thanks again Eric) and found out a lot of info early on. Plus, I took a cue from the redline Honda set on the F22. And don't worry, no criticism read.

 

any more info you learned would be greatly appreciated. this is basically gonna be a major study guide for the few of us who also are looking to dive into this project. i dont understand by the cue on the f22? i mean i understand the lower redline, but wouldn't that only be in effect on ap2's bc of the ecu or does the engine just not run that high? personally i like stretching the legs of the ap1 to 9000. gets some funny looks from first time riders. again, me and i'm sure the guys who are keeping tabs really do thank you for taking time to answer questions, hope i'm not a bother, but this is a serious consideration (at least for me) for a "i'll be in the garage honey" project.

 

It's not a bother at all. The whole reason I started this thread was to answer questions and to see what can be done with this engine build. I read a lot of talk and interest in it but no actual results, or at least none posted. So why not try it out? When I mentioned the F22, I was referring to what I've seen about power production tapering off around 8k.

 

gotcha, i also researched it for a good while, but never did end up finding anyone who was doing it. its definantly a good alternative to someone who has to do the project over a year or so bc they cant afford to spend $4k at once to get a stroker kit. well again i (we) are pullin for a positive turnout. i'll be following the thread and looking foward to any more info you feel is relavant. also for good measure, can you run over these parts real quick? and one more question. why did you go with kmc valves instead of skunk2 valves? much appreciated.

Parts necessary for KPro conversion - $280 (new)
PRB KPro - $950 (used)
KPro S2000 conversion - $450 plus shipping

 

Skunk2 doesn't make F20 valves. I could have used Supertech but I chose KMC instead cause they were a little cheaper. The parts you listed are needed in order to run a Hondata KPro. Unfortunately it is not a plug and play affair, at least not initially. Here's a link to give you more info.

http://hondata.com/s2000kpro.html

 

1.) My bad, I was sure i had seen them somewhere.
2.) so essentially this is a different style AEM EMS if i read correctly? Another dumb/not experienced engine builder question...I understand the concept of the K-Pro running the S, but how come the parts have to be swapped out? Are they different sizes therefor the K-Pro would read different readings with the S parts in place? Thanks Kial007!

 

Yes, a Kpro is a different style standalone ecu. The size of the parts does not change, they are actual S2000 parts but they are from an 06 (DBW). The KPro needs this type of sensor to control the engine. If you look back a couple pages, there are pictures of when I converted my parts including comparisons between new and old cam and crank sensor wheels. Notice the extra tooth/notch on each wheel? This difference also requires a different sensor to pick it up and the use of a different cam sensor requires the use of a different valve cover (06=1 cam sensor, pre-06=2 cam sensors) which in turn requires the use of a different pcv valve. In terms of what engine measures are gained by these pickups to allow the use of a KPro, I have no idea but they are necessary for the KPro to control a F20.