the Official "NA Tuning" thread
#1
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the Official "NA Tuning" thread
currently my car is putting 213rwhp with KN drop in filter and spoon n1 exhaust. i want j's ecu next. i have heard i can expect 5-7rwhp from the ecu. so saying a made 7rwhp from the ecu-that would be 220rwhp. i need another 10 or so. mugen/ricks header? help. thanks for the tips....oh and more the 230 would be nice too!
due to the shear size that this thread has become, i am going to use this first post as a "sticky" type of thing. i'll post simple facts and terms that are used in this monster thread, so that newbies and others and simply just check the first page for answers to simple questions and also to see whats worked and what hasnt in our quest for 230 NA.
basic requiremets for NA HP:
1.) VAFC/EMANAGE/AEM EMS
these are used to modify a number of things ranging from AFR,Vtec crossover,timing, ect... vafc's will ONLY modify the AFR and Vtec crossover while the AEM systems can modify not only AFR and Vtec but also timing and just about every function on the car and even ADD some too.
[B]2.)60mm+ exhaust AND test pipe
the stock exhaust is among the best for a production car, but there is always room for improvement. singles ALWAYS make more power than duals, but incase your wondering Invidia has proven to make the most power for a dual at around 5-7rwhp. be careful as most aftermarket singles are 60mm(which is also the same diameter as the stock exhaust), this isnt a bad thing but 63mm+ has shown to make the most power, with 70mm being the top RWHP producer at 10rwhp+.
3.)header. this is a very hot topic, some HATE aftermarked headers, some swear by them. i personally am on the fence on this one. i make my 227rwhp WITH the stock header in place. TODA, MUGEN, RICKS,HYTECH, have proven to make power, many others are still awiating dynos to prove their worth.
at this point with the above mods and a good tune you should be seeing 220+ to the wheels. AP1 and 2's seem to respond to mods just as well as the other with AP2's always have the thicker mid-range.
below is a dyno comparo(thanks to WildcardTRD) shown many of the long timers of this thread and what are current setups are and how the stack up against eachother. NOTE: the dyno plot belonging too 2QUK4U is of an MY2006, with bolt ons and 4.56 gears. the gears dont add power but they make the power appear faster, which is part of the reason why his midrange is so much higher than the rest of us. if you are interested in one of the members mods, its probably best to PM that owner and get in touch with them that way.
due to the shear size that this thread has become, i am going to use this first post as a "sticky" type of thing. i'll post simple facts and terms that are used in this monster thread, so that newbies and others and simply just check the first page for answers to simple questions and also to see whats worked and what hasnt in our quest for 230 NA.
basic requiremets for NA HP:
1.) VAFC/EMANAGE/AEM EMS
these are used to modify a number of things ranging from AFR,Vtec crossover,timing, ect... vafc's will ONLY modify the AFR and Vtec crossover while the AEM systems can modify not only AFR and Vtec but also timing and just about every function on the car and even ADD some too.
[B]2.)60mm+ exhaust AND test pipe
the stock exhaust is among the best for a production car, but there is always room for improvement. singles ALWAYS make more power than duals, but incase your wondering Invidia has proven to make the most power for a dual at around 5-7rwhp. be careful as most aftermarket singles are 60mm(which is also the same diameter as the stock exhaust), this isnt a bad thing but 63mm+ has shown to make the most power, with 70mm being the top RWHP producer at 10rwhp+.
3.)header. this is a very hot topic, some HATE aftermarked headers, some swear by them. i personally am on the fence on this one. i make my 227rwhp WITH the stock header in place. TODA, MUGEN, RICKS,HYTECH, have proven to make power, many others are still awiating dynos to prove their worth.
at this point with the above mods and a good tune you should be seeing 220+ to the wheels. AP1 and 2's seem to respond to mods just as well as the other with AP2's always have the thicker mid-range.
below is a dyno comparo(thanks to WildcardTRD) shown many of the long timers of this thread and what are current setups are and how the stack up against eachother. NOTE: the dyno plot belonging too 2QUK4U is of an MY2006, with bolt ons and 4.56 gears. the gears dont add power but they make the power appear faster, which is part of the reason why his midrange is so much higher than the rest of us. if you are interested in one of the members mods, its probably best to PM that owner and get in touch with them that way.
#3
why look at a J's ecu and then some small header? dude, if your gonna go that route, go with it al,l J's header, and 70RR and the ecu. mad gains. also get their throttle body, and make sure you have a hondata gasket. all that stuff is fat gains. you could also get an F22, thatd help...
late dave
late dave
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Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Nov 14 2005, 06:59 AM
why look at a J's ecu and then some small header? dude, if your gonna go that route, go with it al,l J's header, and 70RR and the ecu. mad gains. also get their throttle body, and make sure you have a hondata gasket. all that stuff is fat gains. you could also get an F22, thatd help...
late dave
late dave
If your going to spend the money on the J's ecu i would jsut get the AEM. And the 70mm IS SOOOOO LOUD.
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That ecu more than likely will add power but, not what your thinking. Your taking the the peak out put from the ecu and tacking it into peak hp. You can't think of adding mods as:
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
#6
Originally Posted by YZER,Nov 14 2005, 09:13 AM
That ecu more than likely will add power but, not what your thinking. Your taking the the peak out put from the ecu and tacking it into peak hp. You can't think of adding mods as:
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
Take AJ-R's car for example.
J's Header, J's Exhaust, J's ECU, J's Intake = 20 WHP = $4,518 USD
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Originally Posted by YZER,Nov 14 2005, 07:13 AM
That ecu more than likely will add power but, not what your thinking. Your taking the the peak out put from the ecu and tacking it into peak hp. You can't think of adding mods as:
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
cat-back - 10hp
intake - 7hp
race pipe - 15hp
ecu - 10hp
headers 15
Adds up to 57hp the problem is, if you actually dyno the car, it may add 10hp from the cat-back higher in the rpm band than the 15hp from the race pipe. Also, you cant always take the manufacture for their word. The dyno numbers they usually give out are at optimum conditions, meaning the temperature was just right as well as the humidity and elevation. From all the above listed mods, I wouldnt expect anything over 25whp gain at most. The s2k is tuned pretty damn well from the factory.
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#10
dude. you made almost 215 wheel now, with basically nothing on your car. i know you know better than to think you cant bolt on 15 more rwhp. cmon. that is cakewalk. just do it, and enjoy it. naysayers are a dime a dozen, those willing to try stuff, enjoy a much happier life, and are far more rare. trust me, youll get flamed. do it anyways. late