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2016 Track Junkie Thread!

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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 04:34 PM
  #161  
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Thanks for all the feedback this helps a lot. I am more torsoey than legs (30 pant length), so it seems I might need to spring for seat/rails too. First HPDE is turning out to be expensive but I guess after this I should only have to cover entry fee's plus I'll be safe from the get go (which is how I will sell it to the GF).

Duffman, did you need to cut anything with the rockstar bar install? and with the Corbeau's how much do you think you dropped from the stock seats?
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 04:44 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by sp0nger
Thanks for all the feedback this helps a lot. I am more torsoey than legs (30 pant length), so it seems I might need to spring for seat/rails too. First HPDE is turning out to be expensive but I guess after this I should only have to cover entry fee's plus I'll be safe from the get go (which is how I will sell it to the GF).

Duffman, did you need to cut anything with the rockstar bar install?

Lmao, my gf was all about safety as well. If it helps at all, the hard dog utilizes maximum space. The soft top clears it by mms. So, if you have a helmet on nd youre a couple inches from touching the soft top you could be ok with stock seats. Once you go full bucket seats you gain safety (with harness and hans) but lose DD comfort. You can also look into a rail that lowers the stock seat a bit.

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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 05:00 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg
Originally Posted by duffman13' timestamp='1459785993' post='23927680
As for seats, I upgraded to Corbeau FX-1 Pros a couple years ago on buddy club rails. If I did it again, I would pick something like the PCI regular or slider mounts. They will fit better and they have attachment points for your submarine straps so you don't have to drill the floorboard for them.

I will say nothing but good things about the Corbeaus though. The barely graze the door cards, aren't too wide for the interior at the base, are upholstered in good quality fabric, and hold great while still being wide enough for someone with a 36" waist (down to 34" now). If FIA certification isn't something you need, they're a great budget buy coming from a respected seat maker. Otherwise, get Pole Positions like everyone else - they fit the car and they fit most waists.
I've been thinking about getting a seat and saw a review of the Corbeau FX-1 Pros.. So they fit without needing modification to the interior? Can you still open the center console as well? I've been looking for a good street/track seat for my car and the PP's are so pricey. How do you like the FX-1 Pros on the street? Are they comfy but not too roomy? I'm about 5'9" and 170-180lbs. A nice bolt in solution would be really nice without breaking the bank. Hopefully I'll see you at an event and I can check them out.
Thy fit great and are very comfortable. I don't DD them most of the time because using a harness on the street is annoying, but they are definitely doable for everyday use, especially compared to the Sparco Evo (expired) I had before. You can open the center console with one seat in, but it won't happen with 2. One thing to note on that is you either do both or none, as most track organizations where you run with an instructor require you to have equal safety equipment on each side of the car.

As for the bar install, it's exactly the same as a Hard dog install. I did it with the bulkhead bar as well, retained my center console, bu the only other interior I kept are the parts with the brushes directly aft of the door, and those required some decent trimming.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 05:35 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by duffman13
Thy fit great and are very comfortable. I don't DD them most of the time because using a harness on the street is annoying, but they are definitely doable for everyday use, especially compared to the Sparco Evo (expired) I had before. You can open the center console with one seat in, but it won't happen with 2. One thing to note on that is you either do both or none, as most track organizations where you run with an instructor require you to have equal safety equipment on each side of the car.
Thanks for the info. The car isn't a DD anymore but I will drive it a few times a week, especially with nice weather. I agree no way I'd drive a street car with harnesses on the street (you're too restrained), but I'm not planning on doing hans/harnesses till a little later and even then, I'm gonna keep the stock belts. I have enough track days under my belt now that I can run solo, so I'll probably just do one seat and harness.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 06:43 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg
Thanks for the info. The car isn't a DD anymore but I will drive it a few times a week, especially with nice weather. I agree no way I'd drive a street car with harnesses on the street (you're too restrained), but I'm not planning on doing hans/harnesses till a little later and even then, I'm gonna keep the stock belts. I have enough track days under my belt now that I can run solo, so I'll probably just do one seat and harness.
Good plan. I have the swap down to a science now, it only takes me roughly 15 minutes including lugging the seats up from my basement. You do need a super long extension for your wrench to get at the rear seat bolts FYI. FWIW, I would use the eye bolts in the floor and transmission tunnel, but definitely those bendy connectors Schroth sells for the outboard strap. I end up leaving the shoulder and crotch straps in full time, and only take the waist one out with the seat.

I don't mind doing 2 seats personally, but that's because I like them to match.

I'd also add, if you're looking for a seat belt extender to run the factory belts in a bucket seat, the rear buckle from a late 90s eclipse will take our male tab and is long enough to go through the waist-belt slots. I found one at a junk yard for something like $5 and used that before I got harnesses.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:00 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by duffman13
Good plan. I have the swap down to a science now, it only takes me roughly 15 minutes including lugging the seats up from my basement. You do need a super long extension for your wrench to get at the rear seat bolts FYI. FWIW, I would use the eye bolts in the floor and transmission tunnel, but definitely those bendy connectors Schroth sells for the outboard strap. I end up leaving the shoulder and crotch straps in full time, and only take the waist one out with the seat.

I don't mind doing 2 seats personally, but that's because I like them to match.

I'd also add, if you're looking for a seat belt extender to run the factory belts in a bucket seat, the rear buckle from a late 90s eclipse will take our male tab and is long enough to go through the waist-belt slots. I found one at a junk yard for something like $5 and used that before I got harnesses.
Nice! If you can swap them out that fast that's pretty darn quick. I would like them to match as well, but then that means more $ for another seat, harness, not to mention on my '06 the passenger side weight sensor is a big pita that I don't feel like having to deal w/ anytime soon and I don't want to look at an airbag light.

I think I'm definitely inclined to run some PCI rails w/ sliders since everyone says they're quality and also has mounts for the submarine belts which is two less holes to drill. Thanks for the info, I'll definitely keep it all in mind.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:53 AM
  #167  
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I think the 06+ has a different hard point outboard for the passenger seat belt which complicates things in that regard too. Definitely worth looking into
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #168  
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Piper are good people. Expensive tho. They did a cage for my buddys 350z a couple weeks ago and I'm getting my custom seat mounts made through them this week.
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 03:28 AM
  #169  
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Hey everybody, i ran into a slight problem this morning.

A friend and i stripped out the heater core and everything under the dash. When i reconnected the battery, all the lights on the car instantly lit up. I did not even have the key in. When i disconnected the kill switch at the removable knob, it stopped flashing. And when i say everything lit up i mean Tail lights, head lights, dash, blinkers. Any ideas?
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 05:58 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by Lalasissyboy
Hey everybody, i ran into a slight problem this morning.

A friend and i stripped out the heater core and everything under the dash. When i reconnected the battery, all the lights on the car instantly lit up. I did not even have the key in. When i disconnected the kill switch at the removable knob, it stopped flashing. And when i say everything lit up i mean Tail lights, head lights, dash, blinkers. Any ideas?
Hmm, no ideas. Youre car is probably junk now. Ill take it off your hands.
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