i was looking into that Jlaudio A1400 monoblack amp, but one thing bothers me,
Rated Power 12.5 V: 240 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
400 W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm
Rated Power 14.5 V: 320 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
500 W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm

i just don't understand what they means, aren't cars should post to come with 12V power only?


or if thier is any other recommand Amp for my Sub please name it guys, i really need something not big.

THX

Leo

 

Car batteries are rated to operate up to approx 14.5VDC (doesn't happen very often, most batteries run 12.2VDC).

Thus, car audio is rated for the 12.2VDC it normally is at, and the 14.5VDC the battery will max out at.

You can always look for a different JL amp. I've heard they're some of the best class D amps on the market...

Edit: I used to run Eclipse amps. If you can find a DA series Eclipse amp (they're not made anymore, so use Ebay), pick it up. Excellently engineered.

 

Your alternator runs at 14.XX volts. The battery usually is about 12.5 with the car off. Ive never owned a car that idled under 14 volts.

 

ok thx.
I got the AMP
JLAUDIO A1400, i am just curiouse if they allready come with the Interface or not?

thx

 

LoL...me neither...but then, the ammeter in your car isn't exactly the most accurate gauge...

And extra lights, sound equipment, etc draw down the power.

 

Most amplifiers don't come with the interface cables. It's another way for the company to get some $$$ from the consumer.

 

maybe we need a
Digital Capacitor?

 

Before getting a cap, you should invest in a better battery and a better amp ground. I've run 1500W systems without using a cap with no real issues. Caps are great if you're going for SPL and simply need that single burst of energy. Or if you plan on stringing a large number in series to filter out power spikes. Other than that, they simply work as a second battery - better to just invest in a better battery...

A set of KC Daylighters + headlights = big drain... Not so much after I upgraded the alternator/battery cable from 8ga to 1/0ga...