glad to hear you got it working Sleepy... and yup... fuses can be freaky sometimes... especially on weird results like that... just keep an eye on it. it could be that the fuse was defective, but if something sparked the fuse - you may have other issues. whatever you do, don't just willy nilly up the fuse size to fix the problem... fuses are there for a reason, and that reason is to blow when something goes wrong.

i would definitely like to know if you develop dimming problems or anything.

wrenches on the terminals...

 

I know what you mean about the fuses - As a matter of fact I replaced the 60 amp fuse that was in place with a 50 amp fuse. I think I should be all good there... Thanks again!

 

You've gotten some good advise on places to start looking for the problem.....................I have seen fuses go "resistive" on many occassions and do just what you're describing. As far as caps go...............if you have an amp with a "regulated" power supply, you won't reap any benefits from a cap. On the other hand, if you own an amp with an "unregulated" power supply, a cap can definitely help your system regardless of amp power. In fact, it would have a more noticeable effect on a smaller amp than a larger one merely because it is easier to exceed the smaller amps rated power than it would be on a larger amp. Good luck and let me know if I can ever assist you in the future.

 

My amp has a regulated power supply - good to know. I am set on ripping out the cap as soon as I get my deep-cycle battery. Thanks for the add'l info! A week or so has gne by since I replaced the fuse, and no problems to report to this point...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NFRs2000NYC
Caps are only necessary if the amplifier struggles to supply the subwoofer with power.

 

A discharged capicator can look like a dead short to a voltage source like an alternator. It is true that a slow charge MAY be built into the system to prevent this, I really don't know that much about how they setup the cap input circuit.
Andy

 

^ Yes, a discharged cap can be considered a short circuit, but it's only discharged before you install it. They usually provide a series resistor for the installation because without the resistor the arc when you first connect power can melt the end off the wire/connector or start a fire.

Once the cap is connected, it stays charged at battery voltage, so when the car cranks up the alternator only has to bring it up another couple volts. It would be interesting to measure how much current it pulls right after the car starts, but I would be surprised if it's near the alternator maximum because the alternator voltage comes up gradually as the engine rpms increase.

I asked the question in case anybody had done any testing of alternator current when a cap is installed.