Wiring New Audio System
08-18-2003, 09:34 PM
#11
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Marcus,
They may call me Insane, but I ain't NUTS!
I'm not about to tear my entire dash apart just to pull a couple of wires... 
Thanks for the info, though. In all seriousness, I was thinking of running at least the drivers side up through the dash (just not sure where yet).
They may call me Insane, but I ain't NUTS!
I'm not about to tear my entire dash apart just to pull a couple of wires... Thanks for the info, though. In all seriousness, I was thinking of running at least the drivers side up through the dash (just not sure where yet).
08-18-2003, 09:37 PM
#12
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Well, this was done with some other stuff I'm doing, you don't have to pull the entire dash off, but it sure is easy to clean things up that way.
On the passenger side you can pull the panel off right underneath the dash, be careful though, you can easily break the tabs. It'll give you some more room to work around, drivers side is easy since it's already open underneath. If you do break the tabs, I think the part is $9 from Honda.
Modifry has some instructions for pulling the passenger panel under the redline module stuff.
On the passenger side you can pull the panel off right underneath the dash, be careful though, you can easily break the tabs. It'll give you some more room to work around, drivers side is easy since it's already open underneath. If you do break the tabs, I think the part is $9 from Honda.
Modifry has some instructions for pulling the passenger panel under the redline module stuff.
08-18-2003, 09:47 PM
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Marcus,
I've already pulled the passenger side dash panel off a few times, so it is no biggie to me any more. I had to do it to install my "courtesy lights". More info about them can be found on my web site (see my epilogue), or go to the thread, wiring lights in the footwell, or specifically the messages regarding my installation.
I've already pulled the passenger side dash panel off a few times, so it is no biggie to me any more. I had to do it to install my "courtesy lights". More info about them can be found on my web site (see my epilogue), or go to the thread, wiring lights in the footwell, or specifically the messages regarding my installation.
08-19-2003, 05:45 AM
#14
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by InsaneInNC
[B]OK, with a lot of help from another thread (Queston for people who ran wires THROUGH the console.), and a further from a picture from Modifry, I was able to run the wires (speaker cables, interconnect, and remote power) down the center column, at least from the head unit to midway through the console.
Next question for everyone:
[B]OK, with a lot of help from another thread (Queston for people who ran wires THROUGH the console.), and a further from a picture from Modifry, I was able to run the wires (speaker cables, interconnect, and remote power) down the center column, at least from the head unit to midway through the console.
Next question for everyone:
08-19-2003, 05:57 AM
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PJK3,
It makes sense, but what you are not taking into consideration by changing wires, adding connectors, etc., is the impedance mismatching. Since you are not talking about DC voltages, but rather AC signals, the impedance mismatching can cause AC noise (signal quality). As a PCB (printed circuit board) engineer, I have done thousands of signal quality simulations, and it is truly interesting what a simple connector can do to the quality of a signal, let alone changing the wire thickness/characteristics. That is why I'm running 1 wire from the amp to the crossover, without can extra connectors.
But enough of that... For me, the wires are already run from the mid-console to where the crossovers will be in the door. Now I just have to finish feeding the wires to the trunk, and cleaning up the dangling wires under the dash.
Hopefully on Saturday, everything will be done, as that is the date I drop the car off to have the amp and speakers installed.
It makes sense, but what you are not taking into consideration by changing wires, adding connectors, etc., is the impedance mismatching. Since you are not talking about DC voltages, but rather AC signals, the impedance mismatching can cause AC noise (signal quality). As a PCB (printed circuit board) engineer, I have done thousands of signal quality simulations, and it is truly interesting what a simple connector can do to the quality of a signal, let alone changing the wire thickness/characteristics. That is why I'm running 1 wire from the amp to the crossover, without can extra connectors.
But enough of that... For me, the wires are already run from the mid-console to where the crossovers will be in the door. Now I just have to finish feeding the wires to the trunk, and cleaning up the dangling wires under the dash.
Hopefully on Saturday, everything will be done, as that is the date I drop the car off to have the amp and speakers installed.
08-19-2003, 06:00 AM
#16
I just ran the speaker wire under the dash. It comes down the center console and under the HU. Then I went along that "crossmember" underneath to where the x-over is mounted (also underdash.) I then ran two wires through the grommets in the doors. The passenger side is not too bad. The drivers side is only harder because: A. There are a lot of connectors in the way. B. The steering wheel makes crawling under there a bit difficult. I did remove my seats for this.
Now, as to the remote power lead....
My understanding is that is it not reccomended to run ANY power with the speaker or interconnects. I ran the remote power lead AROUND the back of the passenger footwell and ran it alongside my monstrous 4ga power line through the passenger sill.
Now, as to the remote power lead....
My understanding is that is it not reccomended to run ANY power with the speaker or interconnects. I ran the remote power lead AROUND the back of the passenger footwell and ran it alongside my monstrous 4ga power line through the passenger sill.
08-19-2003, 08:04 AM
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i've heard the same thing about the remote-turn on lead but i ran it next to the speakers no problem. i ran them next to the inter-connects at one point and also no problems. before you go ripping everything up, i'd dry test it first.
08-19-2003, 09:19 AM
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Just got off the phone with my installer. He told me in all the years he has been doing this, he has never had a problem running the remote power on with the other signal wires, and not to rip-up anything I have done. Bottom line, this is a very low current wire, so the noise it induces on other lines is minimal.
Bottom line, this is a very low current wire, so the noise it induces on other lines is minimal.
08-19-2003, 09:37 AM
#20
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by InsaneInNC
[B]PJK3,
It makes sense, but what you are not taking into consideration by changing wires, adding connectors, etc., is the impedance mismatching.
[B]PJK3,
It makes sense, but what you are not taking into consideration by changing wires, adding connectors, etc., is the impedance mismatching.