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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:40 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Jan 27 2011, 09:01 AM
If you setup it up properly, the "lag" is no problem. I'd say I pushed mine to the limits and didn't see any issues.

This was with the original kit that was designed years ago too.
Can you elaborate on this, what is "correctly"?
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808,Jan 27 2011, 08:34 AM
Where do you have your tank and pump mounted?
My pump is mounted behind my bumper down load on the passenger side and my tank is mounted in front of the radiator on the driver side. I hate the damn lag with this setup. I knew it was there without the flow gauge and now that I have one it confirms it.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Jan 27 2011, 01:40 PM
Can you elaborate on this, what is "correctly"?
I'm not sure, the guy that tuned my car set it up. And I never messed with it, nor had any issues. I know that the start PSI was set to come on way before it was actually needed though 10-12 psi. And I believe it was "all in" at around 18-20 psi or so. The controller tells the pump what to do, so you adjust the "lag" there.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Jan 27 2011, 10:20 AM
I'm not sure, the guy that tuned my car set it up. And I never messed with it, nor had any issues. I know that the start PSI was set to come on way before it was actually needed though 10-12 psi. And I believe it was "all in" at around 18-20 psi or so. The controller tells the pump what to do, so you adjust the "lag" there.
Yeah, its not a matter of setting up properly, its that the progressive nature of the kit produces inadequate injection when its called upon because of the pump, your able to dodge the bullet for two reasons, your injection settings you want are higher then typical, this gives you more compensation room to adjust for, but the only reason why that can work for you is that you are drag racing, I will explain. Once you go from a dig and start injecting, the pump will remain injecting to the end of your run because there isn’t enough time between shifts for it to unprime and have to spool back up, the pump is primed, spooled and running until you finish.

On a street application such as what we are experiencing, being on and off the gas, you will never get injection when you want it because the pump has to re prime and spool every time its called on, (2-3 sec delay ave) and you cant tune around this because it fluctuates depending on how you apply the throttle and how much load is on the car/gear selection. You can imagine downshifting on hwy to pass and your car will never see injection in 3rd gear, that can be catastrophic done over and over depending on how much you rely on the stuff.

Your dodging a bullet, but a better more reliable and precise set up would be that of a single or dual stage where the pump is under full pressure at all times, and controlled by an electronic solenoid that engages 100% injection as soon as it gets a signal, no waiting for a progressive controller to send the signal to the pump which then needs time to spool and start injecting, by that time you are half way through the gear and running dry in on/off driving situations.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #35  
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Seems pretty instant to me with meth held in the line couple inches from the injector via a good check valve.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opXK7-iyh1w [/media]
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Jan 27 2011, 02:30 PM
Yeah, its not a matter of setting up properly, its that the progressive nature of the kit produces inadequate injection when its called upon because of the pump, your able to dodge the bullet for two reasons, your injection settings you want are higher then typical, this gives you more compensation room to adjust for, but the only reason why that can work for you is that you are drag racing, I will explain. Once you go from a dig and start injecting, the pump will remain injecting to the end of your run because there isn’t enough time between shifts for it to unprime and have to spool back up, the pump is primed, spooled and running until you finish.

On a street application such as what we are experiencing, being on and off the gas, you will never get injection when you want it because the pump has to re prime and spool every time its called on, (2-3 sec delay ave) and you cant tune around this because it fluctuates depending on how you apply the throttle and how much load is on the car/gear selection. You can imagine downshifting on hwy to pass and your car will never see injection in 3rd gear, that can be catastrophic done over and over depending on how much you rely on the stuff.

Your dodging a bullet, but a better more reliable and precise set up would be that of a single or dual stage where the pump is under full pressure at all times, and controlled by an electronic solenoid that engages 100% injection as soon as it gets a signal, no waiting for a progressive controller to send the signal to the pump which then needs time to spool and start injecting, by that time you are half way through the gear and running dry in on/off driving situations.
I did all kinds of street racing/driving. All on full tilt making 700whp. I don't think it's luck? I had over 6000 miles with this setup, making that kind of power.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #37  
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I'm going the solenoid route also. I wonder if the pump can handle being ON all the times with the ignition of the car or whether it will burn out?
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #38  
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I don't understand why you guys think you have to reinvent the wheel. If there was a design flaw in AEM Water/Meth kit, I guarantee I would've destroyed my motor. I don't think there is a single person on here that made the kind of power I did on that kit, and for as long as I did. It wasn't a one shot wonder either. It was 40+ 1/4 mile passes, it was 6000 miles on the street, and tons of dyno pulls. The kit is solid, cheap, and works. I also used the recommended 50/50 water/meth mix. No reason going against what the engineers that designed the system recommend.

You don't need to build some elaborate, expensive, complicated system. It's not needed.

I mean seriously, what kind of power are you guys wanting to make on the kit? Is 700whp not enough, is 9 second 1/4 pass not enough? Honestly, at that point, you'll need race gas to continue past that HP level.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #39  
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I know the new pumps have a kill switch when the pump is overheating (220 or 240 degrees) it wont turn on again till it cools below the set temperature, not sure about the older ones.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Jan 27 2011, 10:48 AM
I did all kinds of street racing/driving. All on full tilt making 700whp. I don't think it's luck? I had over 6000 miles with this setup, making that kind of power.
6000 miles? I put that many miles on my car in 4 months, but what ever. Your right, I must not know what I’m talking about. I find it interesting that several people have noticed the same delay problem that I did 2 years ago, but know one could explain why. There is a reason for it, and I’m explaining the mechanics of why that is…
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