I am still running the stock clutch. I think turbo's are harder on the clutch since they tend to hit hard once they spool up. With this SC the torque builds very smoothly, yet quickly. Then again it all depends on driving style.

 

After driving HMMWV (Humvees) and the occasional tank for the last year and three months I don't think I am going to be able to baby my car at all when I get home.

Won't hurt to let it wear out before I get a new one. I only have 5,000 miles on my car.

No vids of the screaming monster yet?

 

Since injectors can start to go out of specification when the duty cycle goes above about 80 to 85%
to get

400 Crank hp (333whp@8000 and 233wtq at 7500)
With a rail pressure of 58 psig approx 8psi of boost
.55 BSFC (Breaks Specific Fuel consumption)
with a duty cycle of 85%

You would need a injector of 589 tested at 43.5psig.

So you would step up to the next larger injector a 650 and run it at 77% duty cycle to get your desired hp of 333whp

If you are going to stay at the approx 315whp reported earlier by William then a 550cc with a rail pressure of 56.8 approx 6.8psi of boost would need to be run at 89.7% duty cycle.

So my suggestion is to go up to the 650cc just incase you decide to run more boost or make other changes (header/exhaust/Test pipe/cam shaft changes or changes in camshaft timing) with increases form those mods it is possible to extract enough power that you may exceed 100% duty cycle on the 550 injectors.


Those mods are two fold when it comes to supercharging and injector duty cycle.

Not only are you getting more power out of the motor that is driving an increase in duty cycle, there is the fact when you make these changes the static boost pressure would drop in the manifold lowering the fuel rail pressure which would again drive an increase in fuel rail pressure.

So again my suggestion is to go with the 650

 

Would I need the peak and hold 650's?

What about the clips?

 

Peak and Hold:

Peak/hold injectors are low impedance, usually in the 1-4 ohm range. When the ecu calls for fuel to be injected, it sends out voltage via the wire clips until a certain current level is reached (the peak part) (varies by injector size, company). For the duration of 1 pulse width, that current is slightly reduced and held (the hold part).

Advantages of this design:
minimizes the injectors "on" time, resulting in faster response
Disadvantages of this design:
increases coil heat, which can lead to failure over time
You will need to wire in a resistor so you do not burn up the ULT it requires high impedance injectors. By wiring in this resistor you also reduce the advantages of peak and hold; not totally gone just reduced. I my opinion once the resistor is wired in the reduction in the peak and hold advantages are diminished to a point to where its not worth my time to wire in a resistor.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Saturated:

Saturated injectors are generally higher impedance than peak and hold, running in about the 10-15 ohms range. Unlike peak/hold, a saturated injector remains "on" for the entire pulse width.

Advantages of this design:
reduces heat
Disadvantages of this design:
slower response time

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There is a thread somewhere where it shows you how to modify your stock clips to work with RC injectors. Basically you remove the blue part inside the clip. However when this is done the oem clip does not lock on to the injector so it

 

Thanks MugenRioS2K! When do you plan to have the kit up and running on your car?

I'm totally jelous, the waiting is killing me

 

hopefully before Sept 15/16 as this is one of the major projects I am trying to get done before NOPI nationals. It looking like I will be in a vender booth this year.

 

Is your kit going to be a beta kit or a production model?

 

It will be a beta and will be extensively tested on the Dyno Dynamics dyno at the shop.

After NOPI I am even thinking about doing some research on the FMIC and try and figure out what actually causes idle droop when using such a larger throttle volume and a way to fix it.

If there is a solution when using a FMIC it could prove a viable solution to reduce IATs and could drop the cost of the kit.

Water to air has its place in supercharging I am just not willing to give up on the air to air FMIC just yet on this kit.


I really like a FMIC not for the look but because the system is passive.

 

Best of luck to you!

I am anxious to see what you can squeeze out of the AP2.

I think the FMIC will clean up the engine bay and make it more similair to the look of the Miata kit which looks VERY good.

Is it looking like it may be available to purchase before November?