found this with a quick Google search

http://www.kenlowe.com.au/raceglass1.htm

scroll down a small bit
I hit page down three times
they have CF and CF/Kevlar versions.

make sure to bottom mount the vents.
If you mount the vent form the top the front edged of the flange will disturb the boundary layer air flow effect that these vents rely on to work properly.

 

Thanks for the link - was looking for a good CF one.

Yep - planning to bottom mount the duct in the middle cut-out/recess (same place that the guys that have been venting the OEM hood have been using.

I have to measure to see if I can get the 4" one in there.

 

The power disro block may be in the way to do the 4" but best of luck to get it in there..
Putting the vent up there is a good place since that is a high pressure zone from the window in addition to the boundary layer effect


Any thoughts of converting the air filter from a cylinder to a planer air filter.

Basically a small air box that has the vent pushing air over the top of a planer air filter that feeds the compressor inlet.

Not having the system in hand its hard to visualize if that is even possible.


One thing I am sure you are looking at is when the car is parked if raining to make sure the vent is far enough away that the rain water is not running off the vent directly into the filter.

My thought was to build a small air box around the filter that has a water trap but allows unrestricted air flow.

 

check this install out this would be something I would be attempting to do once I get my kit.

Wonder if the K&N "air box" will fit back there if so it would make a good start for something like this.

http://www.revlimiter.net/mods/duct.html

 

Can't you just cut a hole in the firewall behind the filter? The filter and Eaton in my Miata are positioned very similar to yours. I have a big hole cut in the firewall just behind the filter. When the car is moving, the air pressure in the cowl is higher so when a hole is cut in the firewall the air enters the engine bay through there.


This way you can avoid any NACA ducts, keep your hood stock and stealthy ...

 

Sorry if I missed it somewhere on the thread, but approx. how long did the install take from start to finish?

 

hole through the fire wall to where?

I'm picturing hot engine bay air pouring into the cabin...



I was thinking a (and posted on the SOT forum) that you might (or I might) want an outlet vent -- through the pass side fender -- but wonder if this would just pull to much air right past the filter creating a low pressure zone right where I want high pressure.

Any thoughts?

 

I think 10 hours tops - not including stopping at the AC shop to have the system evacuated and again to have the lines made and re-installed.

I could probably do one in 5 hours - excluding the battery relo. Put it this way, I would install 3 of these for free before I would do another Hondata intake gasket install for money.

 

There really would be no room to cut a hole to bring air in through the cowling (where the wiper motors are).

I was also thinking about bringing the inlet pipe into the fender and mounting it between the inner and out fender (saw a fuse box relocated there on one car). After running this for a while I have decided not to worry about it. The filter area remains amazingly cool compared to the rest of the engine compartment. The Honda engineers must have designed it so it would remain cool to extend battery life and protect the plasic and other electronics that are there. I think a NACA duct will bring additional cool air in when the vehicle is moving.

 

to the cowl