Cam Timing with Supercharger
Originally Posted by Sideways' timestamp='1325090160' post='21268348
It appears cars with restrictive exhausts (like factory) should run just 3 degrees advance on the exhaust and leave the intake stock.
That leaves the overlap at three degrees less and helps the exhaust to clear.
I saw big improvements with 0 intake, +3 exhaust cam settings. My exhaust is very free flowing so the cam timing was not ideal.
I'm looking for someone with a restrictive exhaust to dyno test the 3 degree exhaust advance.
I would like to post the before and after dyno charts for all to see.
Please let me know if you are interested and we can discuss.
I'm thinking a factory setup with 7-8 psi should see about 10 horsepower.
That leaves the overlap at three degrees less and helps the exhaust to clear.
I saw big improvements with 0 intake, +3 exhaust cam settings. My exhaust is very free flowing so the cam timing was not ideal.
I'm looking for someone with a restrictive exhaust to dyno test the 3 degree exhaust advance.
I would like to post the before and after dyno charts for all to see.
Please let me know if you are interested and we can discuss.
I'm thinking a factory setup with 7-8 psi should see about 10 horsepower.
s2000junky! do it!! maybe I can come watch ^^
- Sung
I'll be testing these sometime over the winter. Already checked and can have them installed while on the dyno at my tuner to see the gains.
Sideways. I have a 70mm se dual exhaust with 70mm test pipe and stock header. Would the combo that was dyno'd be the best combo still you think?
Sideways. I have a 70mm se dual exhaust with 70mm test pipe and stock header. Would the combo that was dyno'd be the best combo still you think?
There isn't going to be much of a step in the key when your only moving 1-3 degrees. Think how much your actually moving the overall diameter of the cam sprocket which is about 4" away from the inner shaft where the key is. There is much more moment at the outside of the cam sprocket then the inner where the key is. Half a mm at the key probably moves the outside of the sprocket close to 3mm.
Thread Starter




Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,033
Likes: 21
From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
I'll be testing these sometime over the winter. Already checked and can have them installed while on the dyno at my tuner to see the gains. Sideways. I have a 70mm se dual exhaust with 70mm test pipe and stock header. Would the combo that was dyno'd be the best combo still you think?
Just the same, -1 intake, +2 exhaust.
It is exciting to get a big increase in power from a little tweek.
Sideways,
Thanks for sending the keys out so fast. I am planning to install them this afternoon.
I looked at ther Service Manual and found torque specs & tightnening sequence for the cam holders. The manual says that I need to loosen all of the rocker adjusting arm screws prior to removing the cams. Is loosening the rocker adjusting arm screws step required (or suggested)?
Would you expect any changes to valve clearance since the lobe centers are now offset? I wouldn't think valve clearances would change that much if any due to only 1-2 deg of rotation.
Anything else I need to be aware of?
Thanks!
Chris
Thanks for sending the keys out so fast. I am planning to install them this afternoon.
I looked at ther Service Manual and found torque specs & tightnening sequence for the cam holders. The manual says that I need to loosen all of the rocker adjusting arm screws prior to removing the cams. Is loosening the rocker adjusting arm screws step required (or suggested)?
Would you expect any changes to valve clearance since the lobe centers are now offset? I wouldn't think valve clearances would change that much if any due to only 1-2 deg of rotation.
Anything else I need to be aware of?
Thanks!
Chris
Thread Starter




Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,033
Likes: 21
From: South of the pier, Huntington Beach, CA
Sideways,Thanks for sending the keys out so fast. I am planning to install them this afternoon. I looked at ther Service Manual and found torque specs & tightnening sequence for the cam holders. The manual says that I need to loosen all of the rocker adjusting arm screws prior to removing the cams. Is loosening the rocker adjusting arm screws step required (or suggested)?
Would you expect any changes to valve clearance since the lobe centers are now offset? I wouldn't think valve clearances would change that much if any due to only 1-2 deg of rotation. Anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks!Chris
Would you expect any changes to valve clearance since the lobe centers are now offset? I wouldn't think valve clearances would change that much if any due to only 1-2 deg of rotation. Anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks!ChrisFailure to do this correctly can lead to broken cam caps.
Changing the cam timing will not impact valve clearance in the normal sense.
It can decrease the valve to valve clearance but that is not an issue here when going the directions we are going.
I just finished installing the keys. No problems at all.
I went ahead and loosened the rocker adjustment arm screws on the cylinders #2 & #4 exhaust valves and the #3 and #4 intake valaves as they appeared to have some valve spring tension (due to position of cam lobes while at TDC). After the keys were installed, I reset/rechecked all the valve clearances (.008 intake & .010 exhaust). You could probably do it without loosening the rockers but I did not want to risk damage to the cam towers.
Now ready to get it retuned (Feb 8th!
)!
I went ahead and loosened the rocker adjustment arm screws on the cylinders #2 & #4 exhaust valves and the #3 and #4 intake valaves as they appeared to have some valve spring tension (due to position of cam lobes while at TDC). After the keys were installed, I reset/rechecked all the valve clearances (.008 intake & .010 exhaust). You could probably do it without loosening the rockers but I did not want to risk damage to the cam towers.
Now ready to get it retuned (Feb 8th!
)!







