herecomesboost build thread (part 3)
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,692
Likes: 6
From: Centreville, Va
the good dead reliable can put out 400 amps if I feed it 780vac can do arc welds can weld all day and night it came out of a Cessna factory I was told. the bad you cant move it more than 15 feet as that is how long the power whip is it only puts out a 60hz sine wave so the ac welds are wide and things have to be better prepped before welding starts I guess it gives good habits not being remotely portable is a huge draw back I have a small mig and it gets me by but its useless on aluminum I hope to get something like yours in the next couple of years as I have decided I will go drag racing in my 40's with a worn out ap1 and make all the stuff myself. have you taken classes or learn as you go?
I haven't taken any courses; I'm going to learn as I go.Everything looks really good so far.
If you end up doing some stainless exhaust stuff (~.065 / 16ga.) get some small filler rod. 1/16th is too big for me, so I use stainless wire (.035) for a mig machine. Just seems better with dipping/melting. Also another tank or a dual regulator would be good for adding gas to the backside of the weld (mainly for stainless/ti).
If you end up doing some stainless exhaust stuff (~.065 / 16ga.) get some small filler rod. 1/16th is too big for me, so I use stainless wire (.035) for a mig machine. Just seems better with dipping/melting. Also another tank or a dual regulator would be good for adding gas to the backside of the weld (mainly for stainless/ti).
when I weld stainless I also like to use 316 or 321 1/16th filler rod makes for a prettier weld and I purge the pipe with my torch I just tap the pedal a few times and repeat as I weld though I do have dual regulators I don't like to buy that much argon . now with titanium I have used an old fish tank and some old mud flaps as a gas chamber I am not a great titanium welder the stuff is hard to work with stainless is a butch to cut/drill but it is the only way to make the exhaust headers manifolds not the ductile cast iron is bad but it has its own set of problems I use nickel alloy rods and acetylene torch to keep the work at an even temp it can be like juggling, being able to do some of your own fab work is very rewarding.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
the eastwood works great for the price, I also have a miller 350lx water cooled and the water lines are bad about getting pineholes and leaking, and when the water gets down in the handle and on your hand on high frequency it will jar your teeth. The eastwood would be more than enough for what your doin with it. I always use 1/16th 316l on 316 and 308l on 308 exhaust like 16 gauge downpipes and I walk the cup for more consistant weld bead compared to free hand.Back purge and control your heat and the weld on the inside should be as nice as the outside, slowly pull off to the side to eliminate fisheyes on stops.I think the eastwood should have came with a gas lens though for better gas coverage on stainless. I prefer gas lens #7 cup on stainless and the small cup on alluminium. I looked at your last build when you first built it thought you where dumb for getting rid of it, glad to see you came back bigger and better on the eastwood about 45 50 on heat on 16gauge on schedule 10 I run filler pass at about 70 to 80 depending on gap 65 70 on cap, or when runnin 1 single pass on schedule 10 about 80, BACKPURGE
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,692
Likes: 6
From: Centreville, Va
the eastwood works great for the price, I also have a miller 350lx water cooled and the water lines are bad about getting pineholes and leaking, and when the water gets down in the handle and on your hand on high frequency it will jar your teeth. The eastwood would be more than enough for what your doin with it. I always use 1/16th 316l on 316 and 308l on 308 exhaust like 16 gauge downpipes and I walk the cup for more consistant weld bead compared to free hand.Back purge and control your heat and the weld on the inside should be as nice as the outside, slowly pull off to the side to eliminate fisheyes on stops.I think the eastwood should have came with a gas lens though for better gas coverage on stainless. I prefer gas lens #7 cup on stainless and the small cup on alluminium. I looked at your last build when you first built it thought you where dumb for getting rid of it, glad to see you came back bigger and better on the eastwood about 45 50 on heat on 16gauge on schedule 10 I run filler pass at about 70 to 80 depending on gap 65 70 on cap, or when runnin 1 single pass on schedule 10 about 80, BACKPURGE
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,692
Likes: 6
From: Centreville, Va
I can't believe this head has 116k miles; still so clean:
Prepped the FBM manifold:
I hope to drop the block off at InlinePRO within the next few weeks (otherwise, it will be some time in Jan).
Prepped the FBM manifold:
I hope to drop the block off at InlinePRO within the next few weeks (otherwise, it will be some time in Jan).
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,692
Likes: 6
From: Centreville, Va
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,252
Likes: 3
From: SOMD
Originally Posted by baZurk' timestamp='1385781775' post='22900841
So what is the plan with the cylinder head? Is that getting the full treatment at inline pro? I will be building the one I have lung around soon.
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,252
Likes: 3
From: SOMD
My only concern with these upgraded parts is longevity. How many miles have people gotten out of titanium valves and retainers? Do they show more wear then OEM would?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,692
Likes: 6
From: Centreville, Va
Had a few hours this afternoon so I decided to pull the engine/trans. Sucks doing this alone lol (don't mind my cluttered garage):
Trans is for sale. Comes with shifter/knob (shameless plug):
Engine bay in its current state:
Trans is for sale. Comes with shifter/knob (shameless plug):
Engine bay in its current state: