Here is the million dollar question...do you know of any good builders for people who want to stay stock?

 

Not anymore I refresh motors myself. As long as the bore is square and shinny new mains and rod bearings from honda as well as thrust oil pump chains and guides. This is the best way be proactive to keep the f series alive don't pass 200k miles please it's not that hard. A dial bore gauge some micrometers some plastigauge and start to dig in. The only shop I'd let touch NY of my 3 motors setting around would be lackey the dad died nd.i can't speak for the son. Frm I'd actually look at bike machine shops as the deal with frm for frequently you will probably have to buy the 4ton8 sets of diamond hones as they won't have the size needed.

Hand honing is truly an art in my 20s I could do it im 45 now and not sure I'd do it also I can't find the one off honda tool we used hrc was a whole other world like mugen race engines in formula 2.

If you have a high mileage motor that is at that point I'd be willing to do a refresh simply because I love these cars and want to keep k swaps.to raecars. I do fab work you want a built diff custom pipes for you fi or vmount im your guy. Next year I plan to get an area set up to freshen these engines.

So pm me if you're interested. I've got my diff going in ND sorting out the flatbottom along with coolers for the trans and diff. As well as playing around with a larger engine oil cooler. You can see what I'm up to on my novi1200 vmount thread Instagram madmattmanic and Facebook Matthew Duncan Sloth2k. The name of my car I've got stuff under Sloth2k version 3 time attack build. Ive freshened up my block I run to retainers with dual springs ru. It to 8800rpm and at that rpm I see 18 psi with the old front mount 2qpsi in the winter but the large intercooler caused a pressure wave that caused compressor surge.
so I've been there done it.
I work from home no big shop I have a mill a lathe and a tig welder. Proficient with them all.
Tje diff sump I built I'd be willing to make more 750$ rebuild diff with it 2500to 3000$ depending on what you want in it. Engines I can turn am f20c into an f22c if you get the crank from sos. Pm me.ill give you my number we can speak I don't like typing. Some things need to be recorded though.

K motors are different animals than f series . Benson is good as well..feel free to.ask any questions if.i don't know ill.ne honest about this too. I got lucky and was trained in homda facilities
also being involved with hrc . Those motors aside from the f.motorz and.nsx.are the only ones where you get all the same.mIms and rods 90% of the time these are special. I want to preserve them. Here is my car and mods I've done.ive done last year. To show I'm not afraid to experiment and.ise scientific method. Currently it's the diff cooling and trans cooling. Cherishing cars these are I could have been in a gt4 but then I wouldn't have engineered that car and knew all the parts make so many from scratch there's pride in that and piece of mind. I've met the best people working with s2k.and nsx wouldn't trade the experience for anything. I commend you all for loving the purest drivers car I've come across. Humbly Sloth2k the manic mechanic

 

mike laskey (son) does good work, though he's a little more dramatic than sr. iirc. dan benson's still doing everything himself and doing it well. the only other name i'd add is jeremy allen (formerly inlinePRO) as i've had two of his AEBS sleeved f20c1's and they're great (still have one)

 

Blackstone results are in.... so uhhhhhh what now?!!

 

I would go back to figuring out why it is detecting spark knock ... cause I am pretty sure that is what the flashpro is picking up. Like I said before, knock sensors are not really made to pick up mechanical knock, they are made to detect preignition (Spark knock).

Otherwise, if you really think this is a mechanical knock, your only option is to tear it down and inspect play in the bearings. I never heard anything in your vids that sounded like knock and the only vid that did was the one you referenced of someone elses car that did sound like it, but again, your videos did not sound like that.

 

i would start with sorting out:

-confirm at the VTEC solenoid for bearing material
-confirm at the oil pan
-talk to inlinePRO about the engine's current state with bearings, compression, scoring in cylinder (and see options)
-once everything is sorted out financially, abuse it until it inevitably lets go.

im fairly confident you won't make it one more track day on that engine lol

 

So I dropped the oil pan annnnnd it’s clean..... WTF.

The oil pickup screen is perfectly clean and the only thing I did find in the oil pan was a few excess pieces of Honda bond...

 

Interesting.. well hopefully the motor is ok .?

Good segway yo a story. This reminds me of a headache I went through back in 2003 I think. I cracked a sleeve on my built b series and threw in a used b motor. The thing smoked like crazy so I was sure it had a blown headgasket.. I pulled the head and changed the headgasket but the thing continued to smoke.. After a few more things and pulling the head a 2nd time I eventually came to the realization that there was a lot of coolant sitting in the exhaust after cracking the sleeve and it just took a while to burn off. I went through a lot of headaches before thinking of yhe simple stuff. Good lesson to just check the basics first. This was before the interwebs were big.. Live and learn.

 

VTEC screen was clean. I pulled the VC off just to check things out and didn’t see anything out of the ordinary.

3 valves were slightly tight to I adjusted those and verified the rest were all in spec while I was in there.

Next up will be fill it back up with oil, warm it up and do a compression test.

 

if you want to, talk to ILP about it. compression/scoring is still an issue even if the bearings are ok. beyond that, drive it how you want to unless if you want to pre-emptively pull the motor and find out what's wrong. i would personally start marching down the path of isolating the noise or finding the clues. i think also worth finding out is if they reused the crank in this motor or if it was OEM/known good. if they reground the crank, i would be concerned the glitter you saw is from one bleeding main bearing

-check the cylinder head oil return orifice for chunks missing (indicator of TCT problem, which would clue in chain noise instead of knock)
-replace chains/guides OR get a billman TCT
-check other things in the engine bay that can rattle. common culprits include engine mount, shields, header, etc.
-check crank endplay or have someone check crank endplay (crank walk type knock, though that would end up in the oil pan)