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It is sounding like there is something wrong inside the cylinder head that is causing your rattle, or "knock" which is totally possible, and it is time for a new head.
I think I had so much air leaking between cylinders that the AFR was off for those cylinders, causing spark knock.. just as many said in this thread.
You can mill these heads up to ~.050 without issue, but you'd want adjustable cam gears.
Every used f series head I've ever seen has had worn exhaust guides. I'm curious if the guides are already shot on the head you have.
Take the head off, turn it upside down and fill the combustion chamber with fuel or alcohol. If it pours out the valves you have valve/seat issues.
The fact that they replaced the seats and your having issues with blowby at the seats says just get another head. Save your self a headache and have the exhaust valve guides replaced/seats cut before installing it.
You can mill these heads up to ~.050 without issue, but you'd want adjustable cam gears.
Every used f series head I've ever seen has had worn exhaust guides. I'm curious if the guides are already shot on the head you have.
Take the head off, turn it upside down and fill the combustion chamber with fuel or alcohol. If it pours out the valves you have valve/seat issues.
The fact that they replaced the seats and your having issues with blowby at the seats says just get another head. Save your self a headache and have the exhaust valve guides replaced/seats cut before installing it.
I would have thought that inline pro would have: Measured the head to check for previous milling before and checked out these guides. They were supposed to replace the valve seals and such as part of their package.
I would have thought that inline pro would have: Measured the head to check for previous milling before and checked out these guides. They were supposed to replace the valve seals and such as part of their package.
Yes, I would think the service would include that. Seems like a pretty egregious oversight here. I understand not wanting to send anything back to IP but I would at least continue to try to work with them towards a positive outcome. It is in their best interest to help you out here and keep their reputation. There will be a big market for engine rebuilds as these cars get older, especially if they continue to go up in value. Until a few of these threads, IP is the first name that came to mind for me. IP should be 100% capable of building out a head once you get a new casting.
I would go back to figuring out why it is detecting spark knock ... cause I am pretty sure that is what the flashpro is picking up. Like I said before, knock sensors are not really made to pick up mechanical knock, they are made to detect preignition (Spark knock).
Not a lot you can do for pre-ignition in terms of a sensor(which is not the same as knock).
Not a lot you can do for pre-ignition in terms of a sensor(which is not the same as knock).
Well no, you dont do anything with the sensor unless it is faulty, you figure out what is causing the pre-ignition or spark knock condition. That was what I was getting at.
Ok all, the results are in... it was a blown headgasket coupled with an out of spec milled cylinder head.
I replaced the HG and cylinder head with a brand new in box cylinder head this weekend and the car has never ran better. The first start is the first time this car has not had the TCT rattle in 4 years, since I bought it. I took it out for about 15 miles after burping everything, then came back and did a leakdown. Leakdown results were below 9% on all cylinders... the best readings I've ever had from this car.
I did notice that the HG I pulled out and the OEM honda one were different. The one I pulled out was a double layer, Honda is a triple layer.. much more stout feeling than what I removed. Pics below...
wow what a find, so happy you finally fixed this troublesome engine yourself.
I hope it runs very well for you now and get to beat on it like it was designed to do
