Mahle s2k pistons
I have some 87.5mm mahles in +6cc being made.. doesnt do much good for you guys but they will make them in bigger bores sizes on request for a small upcharge.
Since they went up in price again, I have been dry sleeving blocks and using wiseco pistons. It comes out to about $150 more than going the mahle route, but its much easier to find a machine shop to do the dry sleeves than it is one with experience with frm
Since they went up in price again, I have been dry sleeving blocks and using wiseco pistons. It comes out to about $150 more than going the mahle route, but its much easier to find a machine shop to do the dry sleeves than it is one with experience with frm
What compression ratio with the +6cc? Might be interested. Thanks again for the last parts, everything worked perfect.
Used copper wire around the cylinders for some extra safety.About the N/A pistons for our engines, do you think the are that much weaker than the turbo ones? Our stock N/A ones are strong and guess the Mahle version are better?
The good old o-rings but used copper instead of steel wire this time because of the MLS gasket and steel cylinders. Just to add some extra pressure.
Darton do this on the 50psi+ engines, maybe overkill for me but easy to do when the engine is stripped.
Darton do this on the 50psi+ engines, maybe overkill for me but easy to do when the engine is stripped.
I will update my build thread soon, just want a few more parts ready to go.
You mill a circle around the cylinder and fill it with wire that sticks up a bit. It adds pressure on the important area of the head gasket. Copper is soft and steel is hard so important to pick the right wire depending on gasket type and block material. I use steel wire on Volvos for example, they have an organic and soft gasket that gives away for the hard wire.
Here´s a picture, not Honda but yeah -> http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/8326/dsc0021ie.jpg
You mill a circle around the cylinder and fill it with wire that sticks up a bit. It adds pressure on the important area of the head gasket. Copper is soft and steel is hard so important to pick the right wire depending on gasket type and block material. I use steel wire on Volvos for example, they have an organic and soft gasket that gives away for the hard wire.
Here´s a picture, not Honda but yeah -> http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/8326/dsc0021ie.jpg
The NA pistons are 4032 alloy, they are not suited to boost, they also come with tapered pins, which arent strong enough for boost.
With an ap1 crank +6cc will get you 11.5:1, with ap2 crank 12.5:1
Glad those parts worked out for you!
I have a set of the custom short pistons here I need to get rid of if you know anyone 87.25mm bore for ap1 rods/ap2 crank. Comes with light weight pins and oem honda rings.
With an ap1 crank +6cc will get you 11.5:1, with ap2 crank 12.5:1
Glad those parts worked out for you!
I have a set of the custom short pistons here I need to get rid of if you know anyone 87.25mm bore for ap1 rods/ap2 crank. Comes with light weight pins and oem honda rings.
Copper wire is all I've ever seen used with o-ringed blocks.
Matt, copper wire is used to help seal the individual cylinders (the wire is cut/installed into reliefs that are cut into the sleeves). Here's a pic of an o-ringed block (you can see the copper wire in the shape of rings around the individual cylinders):
The NA pistons are 4032 alloy, they are not suited to boost, they also come with tapered pins, which arent strong enough for boost.
With an ap1 crank +6cc will get you 11.5:1, with ap2 crank 12.5:1
Glad those parts worked out for you!
I have a set of the custom short pistons here I need to get rid of if you know anyone 87.25mm bore for ap1 rods/ap2 crank. Comes with light weight pins and oem honda rings.
With an ap1 crank +6cc will get you 11.5:1, with ap2 crank 12.5:1
Glad those parts worked out for you!
I have a set of the custom short pistons here I need to get rid of if you know anyone 87.25mm bore for ap1 rods/ap2 crank. Comes with light weight pins and oem honda rings.



