NEED A VORTECH WIZARD!
What should my compression be at right now? My tuner sad that I do not need to lower compression as long as its tuned correctly, So before I do my own compression, what should be the correct number?
So after i got my leakdown test today from my friend at a local honda dealer, it turned out perfect.
Cylinder #1 160psi Leakdown 5%
Cylinder #2 170psi Leakdown 2%
Cylinder #3 170psi Leakdown 6%
Cylinder #4 179psi Leakdown 1%
So here is where I am at, Internals are great, Professional Tune with Bigger Injectors, 13.8 lbs of boost, Hondata Map sensor, Haltech ecu, 70 mm exhaust, and a 4-2-1 Header 60mm collector, Stage 3 Clutch. The Vortech sounds and feels great. the final result is
Mustang Dyno = 263whp
Dynojet = 259whp
And no one can tell me why its running these low numbers if my car has been tuned right? What could it be?
Cylinder #1 160psi Leakdown 5%
Cylinder #2 170psi Leakdown 2%
Cylinder #3 170psi Leakdown 6%
Cylinder #4 179psi Leakdown 1%
So here is where I am at, Internals are great, Professional Tune with Bigger Injectors, 13.8 lbs of boost, Hondata Map sensor, Haltech ecu, 70 mm exhaust, and a 4-2-1 Header 60mm collector, Stage 3 Clutch. The Vortech sounds and feels great. the final result is
Mustang Dyno = 263whp
Dynojet = 259whp
And no one can tell me why its running these low numbers if my car has been tuned right? What could it be?
Are you sure you have the correct pulley ? Where did you purchase it from ? I seem to remember a while back some Vortech guys having issues with pulleys. I could be way off though it just doesn't add up even with the stock pulley I would think you would make more power then you are right now.
You are right about needing more power, 3.8" pulley and I purchased it directly from Vortech and My boost gauge reads 13.8 and the tuner tuned it at that boost level... Its so frustrating to pay all this money for nearly 60whp more and no answer as in why its producing such a low number.
Have you made sure that it is definately swapping onto the high cam? could be a broken vtec solenoid. Have you tried checking for error codes? I know its a long-shot but if the CEL bulb has blown you could have a faulty sensor and not know. For example your knock sensor could of been damaged during your clutch install and put the car into limp mode. This happened to me when I installed my clutch and the car in limp-mode was REALLY down on power.
I say take it to T1...I have had work done by SSA and all it can say is they did junk work on my car. Im sure they have done great things to some/most but if it was me I would stay away. It wouldnt hurt to just have T1 take a look at it or even try talking to C&C Track Time Performance in Houston.







