S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Preparing for SOT kit.

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Old May 6, 2009 | 11:29 AM
  #31  
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theres two ruber grommets on the drivers side below the master cylnder that go right into the cabin. those are the easiest to use to run wires in/out of engine compartment/cabin.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by vader1,May 6 2009, 01:20 PM
[QUOTE]

I think I will not have to run the 3.3 volt to the guage the way the LCD multi guage works, but I should be able to make it all work with this diagram.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 02:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,May 6 2009, 01:52 PM

Are you sure...
The phono jack cable does not contain a power source for the gauge.

I will need to read up on the LCD gauge.




I suppose I could do it this way. The guage comes with its own control box and I was going to run some power to where I was going to mount these things and then add a fuse for each plx box and run them seperately to each plx device, but I suppose I could power the wideband unit, and then draw power from the wideband module to power the guage box. Whichever looks easier when I plan to hook it all up, but I am leaning towards a seperate fuse for each one.
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Old May 6, 2009 | 04:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by vader1,May 6 2009, 04:05 PM
I suppose I could do it this way. The guage comes with its own control box and I was going to run some power to where I was going to mount these things and then add a fuse for each plx box and run them seperately to each plx device, but I suppose I could power the wideband unit, and then draw power from the wideband module to power the guage box. Whichever looks easier when I plan to hook it all up, but I am leaning towards a seperate fuse for each one.
i have not personally installed one of there nice LCD multi gauge.

Just looked at the LCD gauge manual.

It appears that the LCD gauge gets everything it needs from the VGA looking cable.

The Display box get its power from a 12V source ( tag to same spot the 12V source for the W/B sensor box.)

TX from the Sensor box goes to the RX of the Display box

The 0-1V and the 0-5V still are wired up as shown in the picture.


The 3.3V and the ground pin in the analogue connector on the Sensor box are not used for anything

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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #35  
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Another question for you guys who have installed already. I am taking the car for service at the Honda dealer to swap out the tranny fluid and the coolant. Yes I could do it myself but just hate the mess. Anyway, my plan was to buy the kit and when it is in for those have the serpentine belt done and have the mechanic swap the crank pulley. I know I could do this myself as well, buut I once bough a toyot truck from a guy who messed up the crank somehow (he bent it slightly) doing his own timing chain replacement. The ever so slight bend in the crank made the seal leak, even after being replaced a second time. So my preference is to just have the mechanic do it, he has the tool.

So that was a long way to get at this question: Is there anything that needs to be done when the crank pulley and serpentine belt is off like installing a bracket or anything, or can I have them swap the pulley and still have access to everything I need to to finish the install?

Many thanks.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #36  
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^I was thinking (at some point down the road) of swapping my Greddy with this SC kit and was wondering this same thing. I installed the Greddy kit myself, and I am sure I could install the SOT kit as well, but swapping out the pulleys sounds tough. I assumed that I would have to flatbed the truck from the dealership back to my house after the pulley swap though. I don't think the car will run correctly with just the pulley swapped out. I could be wrong though.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #37  
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the pullies are easy. you just need either A. manly impact gun or B. breaker bar with poles from the your jack to increase your leverage on said breaker bar. its not a big deal at all. reainstalling, a tq wrench that goes high enough would help.

you can def drive the car when teh pullies are swapped. you are just swapping a stock oem pully for a stock oem crank pully with holes drilled in it and tapped. nothing more


vader1, nothing has to be installed when pulley is off. no brakets, what nots. you will be fine. he can even install the charger pulley on the modified crank pulley if you dont want to cram your hands down there. the cool thing about this blower is the belt is a seperate tensioned system. if the blower belt goes, you can still drive home
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:49 AM
  #38  
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[QUOTE=camuman,May 12 2009, 01:05 PM]


vader1, nothing has to be installed when pulley is off.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by vader1,May 12 2009, 11:49 AM
(although I thought it would already be attached to the modified crank pulley).
It's not possible to put the SC crank pulley onto the modified OEM pulley, and then install both at the same time. The OEM crank pulley needs to be held by the crank pulley tool while tightening the crank bolt.

It would have been nice though since one may have to "bump" the engine to turn the crank pulley a little. This may be needed in order to get clearance to access to each SC crank pulley bolt when torquing them down. Having both pulleys already put together would have made things slightly easier, but it's not bad as is.
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Old May 20, 2009 | 08:07 AM
  #40  
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Putting check in the mail.........
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