ScienceofSpeed Supercharger System Updates
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From: Phoenix
Originally Posted by Flite,May 12 2009, 06:50 PM
I actually just got done and went for a quick drive. I haven't gotten on it hard yet. I'm going to try to get to the dyno in the next day or two, but the nearest one is about 1:15 from me. I am pretty amazed at how "stock-like" it drives when driven slowly. I also got on it up to about 6500 rpms just to sample the FVM thing. There's absolutely NO noticeable VTEC transition. The powerband is way smoother than stock. I'm very impressed so far. My last car was a 450+hp turbo VW that was an absolute beast. This doesn't have anywhere near that "HOLY SH*T!" factor. What this feels like is the power the car should have had from the factory. This is my second S2000 and I've always thought the chassis was good enough to make the engine feel underwhelming. That's gone now and it feels absolutely balanced. This is how an S2000 is supposed to feel.
With that said... I'm going to disappoint some people here... but my install thread isn't going to happen. There are a few little details that weren't perfectly clear in the instruction, and a few things I made some minor changes to in the interest of longevity (a career in aviation tends to make people a little more anal than normal). I did take some pictures of those things and I'll post those up here soon. I also caught a few minor errors or omissions in the instructions that I can either post here or send in to SoS. I'll let Chris make that call. Everything was extremely minor. This has been the most organized kit and has had the best instructions of any turn key kit I've ever messed with. SoS has my full confidence. I absolutely recommend this kit to anybody who's in the supercharger market. The quality of the brackets, the retention of factory hardware, the almost complete lack of changing anything beyond the ability of returning to stock (literally 2 holes drilled in the radiator shroud and one cut radiator hose, otherwise nothing had to be cut), the completeness of the kit (I've never seen a kit that included loctite and anti-seize)... .literally everything was 100% top notch.
My hat's off to Chris and the boys at SoS.
With that said... I'm going to disappoint some people here... but my install thread isn't going to happen. There are a few little details that weren't perfectly clear in the instruction, and a few things I made some minor changes to in the interest of longevity (a career in aviation tends to make people a little more anal than normal). I did take some pictures of those things and I'll post those up here soon. I also caught a few minor errors or omissions in the instructions that I can either post here or send in to SoS. I'll let Chris make that call. Everything was extremely minor. This has been the most organized kit and has had the best instructions of any turn key kit I've ever messed with. SoS has my full confidence. I absolutely recommend this kit to anybody who's in the supercharger market. The quality of the brackets, the retention of factory hardware, the almost complete lack of changing anything beyond the ability of returning to stock (literally 2 holes drilled in the radiator shroud and one cut radiator hose, otherwise nothing had to be cut), the completeness of the kit (I've never seen a kit that included loctite and anti-seize)... .literally everything was 100% top notch.
My hat's off to Chris and the boys at SoS.
Cheers,
-- Chris
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From: middle of a corn field
Here's a quick little pic post for those who are curious.
This is how it arrived. It was packaged very well. Nothing was loose to bang around or anything and everything was very well marked
and the supercharger itself separate from the rest.
This is the directions. Take note of the bolt head figure as well as the printed on measuring line. Very nice attention to detail:
And the directions/figures:
First I did the hood dampers. If you can't figure this out, you really have no business even attempting the blower:
Stock
And with the dampers: NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREAK THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY FREE WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS!
First thing to note... If you've never pulled the rear deck out of the car, it takes 7 push pins to remove it. The directions say 3. There are 3 on the rear edge of the deck, but another 4 on the front edge. If you look closely in this picture you can see the reflection. This is actually shot up into the rear window and reflected on to the front of the rear deck.
When you get the rear deck out, it'll probably look like this:
Buy some of this:
And make it look like this:
With the rear deck removed, this is the view down behind the front seats to the fuel pump. This was really the only part of the instructions that I thought could have been a little clearer. At this point the instructions basically just say to remove the old pump and replace it with the new one. I've done this before so it's no big deal, but if you were brand new to this you might end up a little confused here. When you get the fuel pump/float assembly out, you then have to unplug the pump, take off the filter screen, remove the hose clamps, and then remove the actual pump from the assembly. Again, no big deal and if you can't figure it out you shouldn't be installing your own blower. I only mention this because the rest of the instructions were written to such detail that a 10 year old could do it.
As far as tools go, I swear 95% of this kit is done with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's really that easy. That was by FAR the most used tool. One other tool to note is a torque wrench. I had a couple of torque wrenches, but I didn't have one that went high enough to torque the crankshaft pulley back on. The setting is something like 197ft/lbs or somewhere right around there. That's a lot. Make sure you have a torque wrench that can get there. Of note... they can get really expensive. I could have bought a nice exhaust for the cost of this thing
This is where I added to the kit a little. This is a coolant line from the heatercore to the aftercooler. It goes through the radiator shroud (Note the rubber grommets for the holes, nice touch SoS) and then wraps under and around the stock water pump and up to the aftercooler. That's the aftercooler water pump under it and I didn't like the idea of the car bouncing and the hose rubbing on the edge of that bracket. I just grabbed a piece of scrap hose, sliced it down the middle and zip tied it there as a sort of sacrificial shielding. I also did the same for the OEM bracket on the far right of this picture where the hose bends, I just did it after this picture
One thing to note is that the lengths of your aftercooler hoses are correct. This is one of those hoses that wraps under the chassis crossmember and up to the aftercooler. If you cut your hoses to long, this will rub against that pulley (not good). Pay special attntion here and make sure there is no chance of it rubbing. I'm going to keep an eye on this. I may look into some brackets and preformed hose to make this a little more of a secure routing solution.
And here it is in the garage finished.
If anybody has any specific questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer them. I can also take some pictures of individual components for those interested. Really though, the quality of this kit is amazing. All of the machine work is really first class. I've seen the other kits, and while they're all similar, the quality of components in this kit far surpasses the others.... and for less money!
This is how it arrived. It was packaged very well. Nothing was loose to bang around or anything and everything was very well marked
and the supercharger itself separate from the rest.
This is the directions. Take note of the bolt head figure as well as the printed on measuring line. Very nice attention to detail:
And the directions/figures:
First I did the hood dampers. If you can't figure this out, you really have no business even attempting the blower:
Stock
And with the dampers: NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BREAK THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY FREE WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS!
First thing to note... If you've never pulled the rear deck out of the car, it takes 7 push pins to remove it. The directions say 3. There are 3 on the rear edge of the deck, but another 4 on the front edge. If you look closely in this picture you can see the reflection. This is actually shot up into the rear window and reflected on to the front of the rear deck.
When you get the rear deck out, it'll probably look like this:
Buy some of this:
And make it look like this:
With the rear deck removed, this is the view down behind the front seats to the fuel pump. This was really the only part of the instructions that I thought could have been a little clearer. At this point the instructions basically just say to remove the old pump and replace it with the new one. I've done this before so it's no big deal, but if you were brand new to this you might end up a little confused here. When you get the fuel pump/float assembly out, you then have to unplug the pump, take off the filter screen, remove the hose clamps, and then remove the actual pump from the assembly. Again, no big deal and if you can't figure it out you shouldn't be installing your own blower. I only mention this because the rest of the instructions were written to such detail that a 10 year old could do it.
As far as tools go, I swear 95% of this kit is done with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's really that easy. That was by FAR the most used tool. One other tool to note is a torque wrench. I had a couple of torque wrenches, but I didn't have one that went high enough to torque the crankshaft pulley back on. The setting is something like 197ft/lbs or somewhere right around there. That's a lot. Make sure you have a torque wrench that can get there. Of note... they can get really expensive. I could have bought a nice exhaust for the cost of this thing
This is where I added to the kit a little. This is a coolant line from the heatercore to the aftercooler. It goes through the radiator shroud (Note the rubber grommets for the holes, nice touch SoS) and then wraps under and around the stock water pump and up to the aftercooler. That's the aftercooler water pump under it and I didn't like the idea of the car bouncing and the hose rubbing on the edge of that bracket. I just grabbed a piece of scrap hose, sliced it down the middle and zip tied it there as a sort of sacrificial shielding. I also did the same for the OEM bracket on the far right of this picture where the hose bends, I just did it after this picture
One thing to note is that the lengths of your aftercooler hoses are correct. This is one of those hoses that wraps under the chassis crossmember and up to the aftercooler. If you cut your hoses to long, this will rub against that pulley (not good). Pay special attntion here and make sure there is no chance of it rubbing. I'm going to keep an eye on this. I may look into some brackets and preformed hose to make this a little more of a secure routing solution.
And here it is in the garage finished.
If anybody has any specific questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer them. I can also take some pictures of individual components for those interested. Really though, the quality of this kit is amazing. All of the machine work is really first class. I've seen the other kits, and while they're all similar, the quality of components in this kit far surpasses the others.... and for less money!
I have received and installed everything but my aftercooler for this kit. The quality and attention to detail in this kit is excellent. 
to Science Of Speed for producing such a well thought out product!
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Originally Posted by jeffbrig,May 14 2009, 08:05 AM
That's the upgraded heat exchanger, I'm curious about the one that's included in the base kit.
