Tial huh... (Mr. Burns finger action) Iiiinteresting...

*adds tial bov to project hord list*

 

I love the little circuit board dash you got going with the switches. I always wondered: are air tubes feeding all the way to the bottom like that too long to be functional??? I figured from common sense physics, its not always a good thing. perhaps the air filter should go right by the opening where the rad fan is and then make the duct come close to that filter so it gets outside air and the surrounding, closer, quicker air at the same time. its a stupid idea maybe, but im just thinking about the velocity of air during a very long flow like that. any physics majors here?
either way, its not that much of a matter- everything else is coming along very nicely here!

 

I made two minor changes. I added a LED indicated for each of the fan switches. There was one instance where the crimp to the +12V power had vibrated loose and didnt know about it. This illumination will help me confirm that power is going to the fans.



Also, to increase the clearance between the aftercooler and strut bar I purchased a master cylinder brace. Gives me clearance & a better braking feel




...and the obligatory Tial BOV sounds. Here's a short 40 second clip
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQXagwx6X8s&feature=youtu.be[/media]

 

holy shit batman. that sounds awesome. is the supercharger suppose to sound like a blender grinding up nails though? lol

 

Yes, all these blowers sounds like ball-bearings rattling in a can. When the hood is down, it's very silent and almost non-existent. Also to consider, the camera mic amplifies certain frequencies a bit.

 

the video is good, exactly what I expected. 3 years ago, I had a CTSC with a Ultimate racing FMIC with a TiAL BOV, it fluttered a lot on partial driving. Have you noticed this at all? What spring are you using? I recall the springs being measured by vacuum, not PSI. Any thoughts on this?

 

Very nice

Did you source the plastic dash piece for your gauge and switches or did you make it? Im looking to make one or get one myself for the start button and one gauge if you have any info.

 

2"

I'm using a 10psi spring (grey). It does not flutter whatsoever. It's either on or off. The car is pulling 20-25 inHg of vacuum, which equates to 9.82 - 12.28 psi. I'm also running a healthy 3/8" vacuum line directly behind the TB (I believe this goes to the EVAP) all the way to the BOV. At the BOV I have a 3/8->1/4 reducer and connect it to their supplied banjo air fitting. The overall length of the hose is pretty short, maybe 12-14" long, which helps the BOV performance as well.

I made it myself. I'm using the stock plastic piece, but modified. If you look at the pictures, I epoxied a sheet of plastic behind the stock panel for structural support. I then came in from the front and filled all cavities with a plastic filler (similar to bondo); which cures to a very hard plastic. After everything was sanded smooth; I wrapped the panel with a 3M matte black vinyl (which matches the stock dash very close).

The plastic filler is called Urethane Supply 2020-T SMC Hardset (http://www.handsontools.com/Urethane...t_p_57747.html)

 

My blower actually sounded worse than that. Another guy on here recently suggested that maybe the Novi 1200 has more gear noise than the 1220, and I think he might be right.

Love that BOV! Fun to hear it; fun to watch it moving. Great vid!

 

I'm thinking of getting a stiffer spring, maybe 11 psi, to keep the BOV closed at Idle. Consequence is potential flutter.

What are everyone's thoughts on this?