The Ultimate GReddy Turbo Kit Thread
For this small turbo I think the 70mm is big enough, The downpipe on the kit is the choke point.
The advantage of getting a larger diameter pipe would be that you can use it in future larger-turbo setups.
The advantage of getting a larger diameter pipe would be that you can use it in future larger-turbo setups.
so it finally happened, i spotted a hairline crack and can smell a slight smell of exh gas from my tubular manifold,
no loss of performance, but good time to replace now.
who do i email about it to get the cast manifold, and i hread they are supposed to reinburst the installation as well, i wont be doing this myself this time, i'm going to take it to a shop, chris lum, can you provide me the source?
no loss of performance, but good time to replace now.
who do i email about it to get the cast manifold, and i hread they are supposed to reinburst the installation as well, i wont be doing this myself this time, i'm going to take it to a shop, chris lum, can you provide me the source?
Originally Posted by asukadc,May 7 2009, 10:51 PM
so it finally happened, i spotted a hairline crack and can smell a slight smell of exh gas from my tubular manifold,
no loss of performance, but good time to replace now.
who do i email about it to get the cast manifold, and i hread they are supposed to reinburst the installation as well, i wont be doing this myself this time, i'm going to take it to a shop, chris lum, can you provide me the source?
no loss of performance, but good time to replace now.
who do i email about it to get the cast manifold, and i hread they are supposed to reinburst the installation as well, i wont be doing this myself this time, i'm going to take it to a shop, chris lum, can you provide me the source?
Pin 38 (Knock Sensor 2/Intake Temp Signal) was hooked up to the intake temp signal on my harness, but in the CH Settings the base map has the intake temp unchecked & the signal set to use the knock sensor.
Not sure if was just my harness or across the board, but others may want to check it out. It's easy to change over to the knock sensor signal if you want, just switch the purple/yellow wire (Greddy pin 38) from reading the ITS (Honda ECU pin C25) over to the other pur./yellow wire with the open connector (Honda ECU pin C22). Greddy wisely tapped & put open connectors on the Knock & ITS wires on the harness so you can switch easily between the two. If you do switch the wire over then you obviously leave the base map setting using the knock signal alone.
Quick question about datalogging & the units.
When you switch the units to Farenheight & the Absolute pressure to PSI for datalogging purposes does it affect anything in the tune or is it simply the Greddy software converting the voltage signal into different units for viewing?
Thanks
Ed
Not sure if was just my harness or across the board, but others may want to check it out. It's easy to change over to the knock sensor signal if you want, just switch the purple/yellow wire (Greddy pin 38) from reading the ITS (Honda ECU pin C25) over to the other pur./yellow wire with the open connector (Honda ECU pin C22). Greddy wisely tapped & put open connectors on the Knock & ITS wires on the harness so you can switch easily between the two. If you do switch the wire over then you obviously leave the base map setting using the knock signal alone.
Quick question about datalogging & the units.
When you switch the units to Farenheight & the Absolute pressure to PSI for datalogging purposes does it affect anything in the tune or is it simply the Greddy software converting the voltage signal into different units for viewing?
Thanks
Ed
so the crack was worse than i thought it would be, which explains why there is a gaseous smell when i open my hood, very slight but it was there. see the tubular manifold had additional cracks on the bottom side, couldn't be seen at all until it was off, 180 degree cracks. the middle top crack was later developed, i got the cast replaced by greddy and it's all good again, somewat better turbo response, no feel on the power loss.
the tubular also had an additional problem, the side where u bolt onto the head is not perfectly flat, it's more of a ) shape, you have to force to make it | to the head, which explained why the bolts tends to back out before i used thread lock. cast is pefectly flat.
see pics.





the tubular also had an additional problem, the side where u bolt onto the head is not perfectly flat, it's more of a ) shape, you have to force to make it | to the head, which explained why the bolts tends to back out before i used thread lock. cast is pefectly flat.
see pics.











