The blower does not have to come off for a clutch job.

 

Well the bracket has to be pulled no? No way to drop the engine with the blower on the car..

 

I was under the impression it had to be removed to replace the clutch.

 

Pretty sure it does.

 

The blower does NOT have to be removed to have the clutch replaced. My installer had to move the AC slightly out of the way for my clutch job, but did not have to do the same with s2000junky's CT setup since the shape of the AC differs quite drastically between the 2 kits.

 

Hmm very strange. Everyone I know with a sc had it removed to install the clutch.
Gotta upgrade the pulley and all anyways so will be coming off then regardless however.

 

If the blower impedes the motor from dropping 3-4" then yes u need to remove it.

It all depends on how mich room there is.

 

If the mechanic who is doing the clutch job is savvy with doing clutches on an S2000. He knows that he can simply tilt the motor back to gain clearance of the upper two trans bolts, the motor does not need to be lowered and hence the SC can stay on. The A/C may need to be removed to gain access to the started bolt if it is larger then the Comptech.

As for removing the pulley on the SC, you should not need to remove the blower to gain clearance from the cylinder head, backing out the bolts on the bracket about 1/2" -1" should be enough to slide the pulley off the SC shaft if it has similar dimensions as Comptech.

Modiction the idler/tentioner pulley's do go bad. I've been through two on my kit in 50k or so. The bearings do wear out and make noise. Definitely make sure the noise is not coming from this. These pulley’s can be found at most part stores in stock for $20. Might be worth replacing just to see.

 

Well I am also smelling burning oil from the bov when the hood is popped so pretty sure the sc is at the very least leaking some oil now.
Only makes the louder noise after being warmed up too. Would think if it was in fact the pulley would make it constant no matter what temp the car was at.

 

Think I'm gonna rebuild it to be safe. Will just buy the bearings and seals.
Doing 12 psi so might as well have a fresh rebuild.
Gonna finally just spent all the money and get it done 100% hopefully.

Got the ASP 4" pulley
ACT PP and oem disc/tob etc.
AEM EMS
ID1000cc injectors.
Buying Hondata or sos map sensor.
Got aem serial gauge on the way
and then a full sc rebuild and should be good to go I think.