Canton pan thoughts here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,757
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From: Waukesha, WI
Resonation began at around 3k rpm. I simply removed it right away. I did not bother trying to fully diagnose the issue.
Perhaps I can loosen the 3 bolts and push it closer to the front of the car...
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Perhaps I can loosen the 3 bolts and push it closer to the front of the car...
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,415
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From: Woodburn, OR
Some concerns, curious if anyone has good ideas to test them: the oil pan provides some stiffness to the tranmsission mount. With the stock part, the engine and trans are one solid circumferential attachment. This pan greatly reduces the leverage--hard to know of it matters. If it looks really sketchy, I'll make some stiffeners to rejoin the two parts.
Edit://unfounded criticisms aside-- thanks canton and David for getting this done!
Edit://unfounded criticisms aside-- thanks canton and David for getting this done!
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 17,792
Likes: 4
From: Bay Area, California
I mentioned the kevko pan in the original thread which does not have the bellhousing section (just like the canton pan, hence your comment on the stiffness) and everyone just about had a fit over hearing about an oil pan not having that total circular circumference for bolting to the transmission. ..
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,689
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My gripes.
-Dowel pines are not used. These make installation alot easier
1/2in npt above pan drain plug is not at the correct angle. It should be level with the engine bottom not with the bottom of the pan.
Positive
The obvious added insurance and increased capacity
Magnetic oil drain
It fits and works as it should
Looks pretty even though nobody can see it.
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-Dowel pines are not used. These make installation alot easier
1/2in npt above pan drain plug is not at the correct angle. It should be level with the engine bottom not with the bottom of the pan.
Positive
The obvious added insurance and increased capacity
Magnetic oil drain
It fits and works as it should
Looks pretty even though nobody can see it.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
I got mine as well, and it looks nice. I just realized that about the port above the drain--that's kind of disappointing.
Some concerns, curious if anyone has good ideas to test them: the oil pan provides some stiffness to the tranmsission mount. With the stock part, the engine and trans are one solid circumferential attachment. This pan greatly reduces the leverage--hard to know of it matters. If it looks really sketchy, I'll make some stiffeners to rejoin the two parts.
Secondly--without the windage tray, there's nothing keeping oil in the front of the pan from sloshing up onto the crank. I'm worried this is going to lead to some frothing after lots of hard braking. Any reason why I can't just extend the canton baffle plate foward to protect the crank?
Edit://unfounded criticisms aside-- thanks canton and David for getting this done!
Some concerns, curious if anyone has good ideas to test them: the oil pan provides some stiffness to the tranmsission mount. With the stock part, the engine and trans are one solid circumferential attachment. This pan greatly reduces the leverage--hard to know of it matters. If it looks really sketchy, I'll make some stiffeners to rejoin the two parts.
Secondly--without the windage tray, there's nothing keeping oil in the front of the pan from sloshing up onto the crank. I'm worried this is going to lead to some frothing after lots of hard braking. Any reason why I can't just extend the canton baffle plate foward to protect the crank?
Edit://unfounded criticisms aside-- thanks canton and David for getting this done!
I live an hour away from Canton, and since I was just finishing my build as the pan was being finalized it made sense to use my car as the test car for the pan.
So it's been at least 2 months and 4 track days that I've had the pan on my car, and no issues at all. I regularly log oil pressure and there have not been any bidg unsafe drops, albeit I haven't hit a track with a super aggressive sweeping turn yet. Very happy with pan, and having met the guys at Canton, even more comfortable with their expertise and support!
So it's been at least 2 months and 4 track days that I've had the pan on my car, and no issues at all. I regularly log oil pressure and there have not been any bidg unsafe drops, albeit I haven't hit a track with a super aggressive sweeping turn yet. Very happy with pan, and having met the guys at Canton, even more comfortable with their expertise and support!
Here's some replies to some of the things that were brought up about the pan during installation.
Not much activity on the thread, so, since everybody has their pans I guess that's a good thing. No news is good news. Anybody else have any oil temp or pressure info?
Dowel pines are not used. These make installation a lot easier
1/2in npt above pan drain plug is not at the correct angle. It should be level with the engine bottom not with the bottom of the pan.
To use the dowel pins would have been a whole extra process and required the rail to be extended out which adds time and cost. While it might help installing it a little we did have cost in mind when developing the part because our market is not always an easy sell to people. We all too common get guys coming to us after blowing an engine. This is why when we develop a product like this we try to keep it as cost effective as possible so that it is an easier sell initially before people blow up their motors.
(Dave says "gee, not just me?")
The 1/2" NPT not being level with the bottom of the pan was certainly a design flub. We dont' often design parts for motors that are tilted like the s2000 so that part was overlooked. However, you will often see pressure from forced induction oil returns and that port is well above the oil level so we are confident that this won't be an issue for anyone.
Some concerns, curious if anyone has good ideas to test them: the oil pan provides some stiffness to the tranmsission mount. With the stock part, the engine and trans are one solid circumferential attachment. This pan greatly reduces the leverage--hard to know of it matters. If it looks really sketchy, I'll make some stiffeners to rejoin the two parts.
We run into this same issue with our Chevy LS pans. We have sold those pans to guys making intense power, (700 to 800 whp) and have had no drive line or transmission flex issues. While on the surface it looks like it was designed to prevent that issue I don't think it makes much of a difference.
Secondly--without the windage tray, there's nothing keeping oil in the front of the pan from sloshing up onto the crank. I'm worried this is going to lead to some frothing after lots of hard braking. Any reason why I can't just extend the canton baffle plate foward to protect the crank?
I know this has been talked about and I hate to re-hash the whole conversation but I want to address all concerns to the best of my ability. If you look at our anti-slosh baffle it covers most of the stock baffle area. The small portion that it does not cover is right above the pump. We could try to extend it but would create monumental difficulties getting the pan on around the pump. As we have experienced both our anti-slosh baffle and the stock baffle are almost at the same height so we are confident that the OE piece offers little if any advantage over our anti slosh baffle.
Only leak I have had so far is from the drain plug. I just loosened it and re-tightened tonight so we will see if that stopped the leak. Copper crush washers are usually phenomenal for sealing...
We see leaks from the washers once in a while (maybe one every two months or so) We have never really determined the cause and have inspected some of the pans with the issue. Usually the fix-all for it is to use a fel-pro 70822 washer instead of the copper washer. They are fairly inexpensive but not close enough cost wise with the copper to make the switch since it is such a rare issue for us with the copper washers.
(from Josserman) -I live an hour away from Canton, and since I was just finishing my build as the pan was being finalized it made sense to use my car as the test car for the pan.
So it's been at least 2 months and 4 track days that I've had the pan on my car, and no issues at all. I regularly log oil pressure and there have not been any bidg unsafe drops, albeit I haven't hit a track with a super aggressive sweeping turn yet. Very happy with pan, and having met the guys at Canton, even more comfortable with their expertise and support!
I can't express how awesome it was to meet Josserman. Having his car here made a world of difference in the end design. We were able to get a better feel for everything as well as gain confidence about the pan and the installation. Justin was amazing about everything even considering we junked up his timing a bit.
Let me know if anything else pops up.
Thanks,
Jeff
I forgot to mention, one of the guys that bought the pan had it installed for gridlife this last weekend and he said he has ran that track with similar atmospheric temps and with our pan on the car his oil temps were about 10 degrees cooler. I'm sure the additional oil capacity had a lot to do with that but I thought that was nice to hear.
Thread Starter
Former Moderator
Joined: Aug 2004
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I had a little oil weeping around the 19mm plug with the copper washer, but found it was just under torqued (not Canton's fault). It's a steel pan (not aluminum) so I had no qualms about torquing to 25 ft*lbs and no issues.
Was wondering about the angled pan, lol.
Was wondering about the angled pan, lol.
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,092
Likes: 839
Awesome!
Not sure if I said it before, but thanks for setting all of this up David. I at least owe you a beer if we ever meet at the track. And thanks to Canton too for actually making this.
I have yet to install mine, though - probably not happening until August.
Not sure if I said it before, but thanks for setting all of this up David. I at least owe you a beer if we ever meet at the track. And thanks to Canton too for actually making this.
I have yet to install mine, though - probably not happening until August.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,757
Likes: 120
From: Waukesha, WI
Good to hear the feedback.
I must add to my grunt list. Removing the pan is a major pita. No pry tabs to work with. I had to remove the flywheel cover to gain access to a lip on the oil pan where I could pry. Even then it was still tricky.
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I must add to my grunt list. Removing the pan is a major pita. No pry tabs to work with. I had to remove the flywheel cover to gain access to a lip on the oil pan where I could pry. Even then it was still tricky.
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