JOOC, how come you had to remove it so soon?

 

OIl drain was fixed by loosening and re-tightening.

 

My pleasure. I probably know a few of you here in SoCal. But if I've met you in person, I probably don't know who you are here on the forum. So if I have met you, please feel free to PM me. If I haven't, please feel free to introduce yourself at the track. I go to a lot of POC events, and an occasional Extreme Speed or Speedventures event. The next Speedventures event I'll probably go to is Buttonwillow in July or Autoclub (I still prefer to call it California Speedway) in August.

I'll also probably go to this Buttonwillow event on August 16

http://buttonwillowraceway.com/calen...riving-clinic/

I really like this clinic because they have great SCCA vetted instructors, offer a great lunch, and usually run configuration 14, which uses the long Dogleg back straight. You can get up to some pretty high speeds before you enter the Riverside sweeper. The've also run a session or two of just the east or west loops. It's really cool to switch things up and run something besides the usual config 13.

 

Just got around to installing the pan. Assuming you removed the OEM gridle, you can reuse those bolts for the flywheel cover

One word of advise, don't forget to transfer over the AC compressor bracket before you install the new pan. Ask me how I know

The two 1/2" NPT bungs use a 3/8" allen key. Make sure you have these handy before you being.

Haven't filled oil yet, waiting for the gasket to cure a bit.

 

Ran mine this weekend at Sebring. Seemed to do fine.

I need a faster reacting gauge to see if it does the trick through 17 but it seemed to according to my VDO electric.

 

Quick question to those mounting oil temp sensor in pan. How are you guys using adapters of 1/2npt to 1/8npt and having sensor stick out into oil. The way i see it even after i cut my adapter there is no way the AEM sensor will stick out past the welded 1/2in bung on pan.

How crucial is it to be exposed past bung? Also do you need to have sealant tape on these threads to prevent oil leaks or will the npt pitch not require it.

 

I ran into the same snag. I don't know why Canton choose a 1/2" NPT for a temp sensor, should've been 1/8" NPT. My sensor is also hidden within the NPT adapter and no longer is sitting in oil. I'm hoping that it'll still pick up temperature reliably, have yet to run the car to see results.

Sealant is a good insurance on NPT threads (especially coarse), never hurts.

 

The temps should measure just fine, the oil is conductive enough that you aren't going to be measuring some temperature gradient or something. That said, if you want to make it neat and tidy, you can use a bushing adapter, or make your own from a 1/2" plug like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k254/=sk0f9r . Just tap a 1/8NPT in the middle.

 

1/2" NPT is pretty standard on many oil pans.. You guys do understand that oil MOVES in the pan right? It's sloshing around constantly. Don't worry, the temp sensor will work just fine. Sealant is ALWAYS required on pipe threads.

 

I was looking for the "chuckle" emoticon, but couldn't find it...

Yes, guys, the temp sensor will work just fine. The oil is sloshing and moving and circulating around a huge amount.

Regarding the sealant. Use thread tape, not liquid sealant of course. And, to be safe, there is a better thread tape than the standard white plumbers tape. At most big box hardware stores there is an orange tape that is much more solvent/pertroleum/jheat resistant.