I'm now running some rake, my front is a shade under 31", the rear 31.2"
This is wheel centre to outer fender edges.

Next project is to fit a pair of 2006 rear rims to the front and giving 255/40/17 on all corners.

It looks like the rears are 1.5" (38mm) wider, but have 10mm more offset.
So I guess they will stick out 9mm more than the oem 17" front rims correct?

Steve

 

I agree with Pruhnke, for optimum track performance the ride height should be adjusted to the max setting.

The manual has two references for ride height settings:
1) A- Distance from Lower bolt to the spring contact area
Front Amax = 14.2" and Rear Amax= 9.4"

2) B- Distance from wheel center to fender edge
Front Bmax = 13.6" and Rear Bmax = 14.2"

To measure B, you must first measure from bottom rim to the fender edge = X. Then B = X - (Rim Diameter /2) . For 17" Rim the outside Rim Diameter is actually 18.5".
So B = X - 9.25".

For my car, I noticed the left and right B height (fender to center wheel height) measurement is uneven although I set the left A and right A to be the exactly the same. I have heard somewhere that even the stock S2000 has uneven height on 4 corners (?).
I used the A reference and set the Front to 14.2" (max.) and Rear to 9.4" max.); you can add more to get to stock ride height.

Anyway, mine with the above max settings on A, the B heights are:
Left Front (Driver) - 13.5", Right Front - 13.75", Left Rear - 13.75" and Right Rear - 13.5".
Floor to jack stands height are : 4" Front and 4.5" Rear.

So, the point is Max A settings don't get you Max B settings.
I wonder if I should use Max B settings instead because it will raise my rear right height eventhough it exceeds the A max settings.

What are you guys ride height (B) on your settings?

 

After you set the suspension from those KW points, measure (ON A FLAT GROUND) from teh ground to the front and rear jack points.

 

Once i measured the car to the minimum recommended ride height 12.6" F and 13.2" R (32cm and 33.5cm to be more accurate), i made slight adjustments while cornerweighing the car. The crossweights were not equal with me sitting in the car. We managed to get them withing 2.5kg difference. The interesting thing was that measuring from the ground to the front and rear jacking points the height was equal.

BillJ, since you are very familiar with this suspension, what do you suggest about preload/ride height?. I chose the lower recommended ride height merely for the fact that i did not want the spring to have any preload.

 

Taseas,

After you cornerweighted...
Do left/right corners of your car have the same ride height?
What are they?


Since my right rear is 0.25 lower than left rear, I experimented by raising the "A" on right rear by 0.4" so it is 9.8" instead of 9.4". To my surprise, the "B" only went up by 0.1". So the right rear B (ride height) is still lower than left rear B and is not going up the same amount as A's.

Note:
A- Distance from Lower bolt to the spring contact area
B- Distance from wheel center to fender edge

 

You can't adjust "preload" on KWs, just ride height. The dampers are designed with a recommended operating range to have full compression stroke without bottoming out and proper droop travel.

With stiffer spring rates you CAN go lower on ride height without bottoming out.

 

you adjust preload to adjust height.............. on the kws

 

No, you adjust ride height via the spring perch to adjust ride height. You are not 'preloading' anything. The weight of the car does not 'preload' the spring. That term came about from the design that is found on many asian coilovers that have a separate spring perch and threaded housing -which you can eliminate droop travel by statically preloading the spring.

 

ah thats right I keep getting my terms mixed up. my bad

 

Does adjusting the ride height (A or B) via the spring perch affect the corner weighting?