KW Variant 3 Settings?
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I try to avoid any toe in or out....if you bump steer the chassis right the static will stay or the car will "bump " to a more stable configuration dynamicly and you don't need to drag the toed wheels when you are running in a straight line
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From: SoFlo
Originally Posted by robi,Feb 12 2008, 06:51 AM
I try to avoid any toe in or out....if you bump steer the chassis right the static will stay or the car will "bump " to a more stable configuration dynamicly and you don't need to drag the toed wheels when you are running in a straight line
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Originally Posted by robi,Feb 7 2008, 01:53 AM
Body roll is determined by two things (well about TEN but in the interest of simplicity) and the interaction of the "link" connecting them, the roll couple
first is center of gravity (CG)
followed by roll center (RC)
some generalizations
higher center of gravity = more roll
lower roll center =less roll
first is center of gravity (CG)
followed by roll center (RC)
some generalizations
higher center of gravity = more roll
lower roll center =less roll
The type of tires you run also play a role in determining an optimal roll centre height. Most people obsess over the static RC height w/o realising that the parameter is a valuable tool in chassis tuning.
edit: replaced tune with tool
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Originally Posted by Borbor,Feb 12 2008, 11:03 AM
I think as a whole, people would be much better off if they worry more about the roll gradient and roll rate than just "body roll" in general.
The type of tires you run also play a role in determining an optimal roll centre height. Most people obsess over the static RC height w/o realising that the parameter is a valuable tune in chassis tuning.
The type of tires you run also play a role in determining an optimal roll centre height. Most people obsess over the static RC height w/o realising that the parameter is a valuable tune in chassis tuning.
and stable in a straight line or in transitional aspects doesn't + under steer to me it means a car which does the same thing in the same set of instances every time predictably and at a rate that allows the driver reaction time
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From: Suwanee
I just got done installing my KW's and I have a small question. I'm somewhat concerned about something that happened during the install.
I typically torque down the flange nuts before torquing down the top damper nut as the flange bolts naturally hold the entire assembly in place. This keeps you from having to use an allen key. Anyways, on the drivers side I mistakenly torqued the bolt down to the factory settings of 22 ft/lbs. I could tell I was getting close when I noticed the bump stop twisting (squeaking) with the nut. After about a full turn I realized that I might be turning the entire piston. I reread the instructions and realized that it only called for 18 ft/lbs. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects, but I'm worried that I might have done some damage. What does everyone else think? Is there anything I can do to check?
I typically torque down the flange nuts before torquing down the top damper nut as the flange bolts naturally hold the entire assembly in place. This keeps you from having to use an allen key. Anyways, on the drivers side I mistakenly torqued the bolt down to the factory settings of 22 ft/lbs. I could tell I was getting close when I noticed the bump stop twisting (squeaking) with the nut. After about a full turn I realized that I might be turning the entire piston. I reread the instructions and realized that it only called for 18 ft/lbs. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects, but I'm worried that I might have done some damage. What does everyone else think? Is there anything I can do to check?
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From: SoFlo
Originally Posted by Logo,Feb 13 2008, 05:28 PM
I just got done installing my KW's and I have a small question. I'm somewhat concerned about something that happened during the install.
I typically torque down the flange nuts before torquing down the top damper nut as the flange bolts naturally hold the entire assembly in place. This keeps you from having to use an allen key. Anyways, on the drivers side I mistakenly torqued the bolt down to the factory settings of 22 ft/lbs. I could tell I was getting close when I noticed the bump stop twisting (squeaking) with the nut. After about a full turn I realized that I might be turning the entire piston. I reread the instructions and realized that it only called for 18 ft/lbs. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects, but I'm worried that I might have done some damage. What does everyone else think? Is there anything I can do to check?
I typically torque down the flange nuts before torquing down the top damper nut as the flange bolts naturally hold the entire assembly in place. This keeps you from having to use an allen key. Anyways, on the drivers side I mistakenly torqued the bolt down to the factory settings of 22 ft/lbs. I could tell I was getting close when I noticed the bump stop twisting (squeaking) with the nut. After about a full turn I realized that I might be turning the entire piston. I reread the instructions and realized that it only called for 18 ft/lbs. So far I haven't noticed any ill effects, but I'm worried that I might have done some damage. What does everyone else think? Is there anything I can do to check?
22lb when supposeto be 18, then back down to 18lb? You're fine
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From: Suwanee
Thanks Bill.
I wasn't worried about the shock ripping out.
The flange bolts are all good. I was more worried about damaging the piston, shaft, or bump stops. I wasn't sure if spinning the shaft/piston about 360 degrees would have done this or not.
On the other hand, 22 ft/lbs isn't a hole lot of force and I'd imagine that the flange bolts are actually doing more to hold the top hat on once the assembly is installed than the top damper nut.
I wasn't worried about the shock ripping out.
The flange bolts are all good. I was more worried about damaging the piston, shaft, or bump stops. I wasn't sure if spinning the shaft/piston about 360 degrees would have done this or not.On the other hand, 22 ft/lbs isn't a hole lot of force and I'd imagine that the flange bolts are actually doing more to hold the top hat on once the assembly is installed than the top damper nut.
I didn't torque a single bolt on my suspension 
but I been wrenching long enough to feel comfortable doing that.
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From: 310
o man. reading the last 6 pages just made me more confused.
im not a tech kind of guy so im not savvy to the lingo and what not.
I live on a mountain, so the streets are not even(lots of little dips) and the streets for the most part are not straight (lots of turns). I was wondering what conditions are the KW recommended settings for?
im not a tech kind of guy so im not savvy to the lingo and what not.
I live on a mountain, so the streets are not even(lots of little dips) and the streets for the most part are not straight (lots of turns). I was wondering what conditions are the KW recommended settings for?
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From: Suwanee
I just noticed something interesting after spending the morning inspecting all of the suspension bolts and torque settings.
The drivers rear assembly is set to about 5mm less preload than the passengers side yet still has about 3mm more fender gap. I disassembled everything to make sure that I had originally assembled them correctly. Everything checks out fine. Does anyone else have this issue? The car seems to drive fine. There's nothing unexpected when transitioning.
The drivers rear assembly is set to about 5mm less preload than the passengers side yet still has about 3mm more fender gap. I disassembled everything to make sure that I had originally assembled them correctly. Everything checks out fine. Does anyone else have this issue? The car seems to drive fine. There's nothing unexpected when transitioning.