Will something like this do the trick: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showp...34&postcount=34 ?

As an aside, I had my Hankooks flipped yesterday. My guy said they were INCREDIBLY difficult to dismount from the 949 wheels. Anybody else dealt with that?

 

I have had no issued taking them off or putting them on from 949 wheels doing it myself. It's way easier then Hoosiers or Kumho 710s on stock wheels.

I am fortunate to have a autocross friend down the street that has a machine.

 

I ended up replacing the entire upper arm when mine went on my last car. I hope you get it straghtened out by the end of the week for Nats.

 

Very nice people come up with some interestingly cool tools. I was going to suggest a c-clamp.

Looks like some re-badged bilsteins?

 

Huh. The guy that did my tires does a lot of change-overs for the autocrossers here. He said he had to walk the bead off the wheel or it kept reseating.

 

The central Texas regions just got done with a huge day of testing. We had vast cement similar to Lincoln, two courses, and roughly 30 people.

Most of our runs were on the timed course, a medium speed 36 second course that covered all the basic elements except an ultra-huge sweeper. The un-timed course was designed to test the behavior of the car through numerous esses and a long slalom.

We started with the quoted setup. Since the Dunlops were .5-1s off pace of the Hankooks last weekend, we continued to scrub the Dunlops. As we were learning the course we varied tire pressures and eventually settled on 34psi. With the course learned and pressures set, we started playing with the bar.

The front bar went to soft, position 1, to stop some of the corner exit understeer. The car rotated better through the transitions and the car required less steering input when on throttle. The timer showed no improvement, even though it felt more balanced. We set the bar to stiff, position 6, to out of curiosity. Gotta try both intuition and something off the wall. The timer said we'd found an easy half second, verified by both drivers. While we didn't re-verify by going back to soft, I'm confident the extra bar allows earlier throttle application and faster corner speed. Oddly, the car had better rotation into mid-corner and transitioning into throttle application. As expected, it did understeer more on corner exit. With the suspension set, we put on the Hankooks to see just how fast we could go.

Hankooks are the cheater tire huh? Sure they take heat better, are more forgiving with more slip, but they howl on the street, have a slight delay in transition, and posted no faster times. I ran a 36.7 on Dunlops with two people and a 36.6 on Hankooks with one person. Pedroza did two runs in my car, having not driven an S2000 in four years, and ran a 36.3 on Dunlops in my car with two people and a 36.2 in Minehart's Miata on Hankooks with one person. Hm. For posterity, full tread Dunlops have to scrub off the first tire wear indicator before they are seasoned.

Take from that whatever you wish, but certainly don't believe everything on the internetz or in the magazines. Next up for testing is going to be glagola's 700/850 setup, but I'd like more camber adjustment before I try it.

For Nationals:
anti-roll bars F/R: Gendron 1.25"x0.25"x36" @6/stock
ride-height F/R: 13.5"/13.25"
springs F/R: 850#/750#, 7"x2.5" + helpers
toe F/R: 0"/1/4"
camber F/R: -1.7*/-2.0*
Dunlops at 34psi OR Hankooks at 35psi

 

Thanks for posting!

 

agreed. awesome stuff! love reading feedback on setups. amazing that you found so much time with the bar adjustment.

do you feel your front roll stiffness is too high now? dropping 150# seems like a lot when the front may be working well. maybe consider 850 front/1000 rear?

where are you guys at with the bump/rebound settings? canister pressures?

 

Why are several people going lower in the back then the front? The tread a couple months ago seemed to be .25 higher in the back and now I've seen a coupe people go .25 lower in the back.

 

here's an interesting post in '03 by gregg lee regarding rake:

Lowering the rear 1 inch shifts the CG down 1/2 inch, but if the CG is 6 inches above a line through the suspension pickups, it will shift rearward only 0.06 inches. For a 2700 lb car that's a weight shift of 1.7 lb from front to rear. A gallon of gasoline would make more difference.

from this thread

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry1411633

maybe rake is more about the suspension dynamics than weight distribution with the s2k