I just put 255 on my +63 6ULR's with stock suspension. I have not raced with this setup yet so I can't tell you about any suspension load related rubbing but I do know the wheel rubs on the lower control arm. Simple/small spacer will fix this.

 

I'm also on stock but with a solid bar and I don't rub the lower control arm at all. I'm running 2.4 in the front and 2.2 in the rear. Toe out in the front and 0 toe in the rear. No rear bar. My sig picture is of this set up...

 

My car has been working well with the setup above. The setup initially had corner entry oversteer. Lowering the rear by .5" and a click of front compression fixed it. While it was working, it rolled too much and required deep braking to induce rotation on corner exit. Last week I installed a Gendron bar, reinstalled my rear bar, then realigned the car.

To ensure similar balance I used a bunch of math to determine roll rates, calculated the bias in my current setup, then matched the front bar to the increased rate of the rear.

Moton Clubsports
anti-roll bars F/R: Gendron 1.25"x0.25"x36" @3/stock
ride-height F/R: 13.5"/13.25"
springs F/R: 850#/750#, 7"x2.5" + helpers
toe F/R: 0"/1/4"
camber F/R: -1.7*/-2.0*

We were scrubbing in a set of Dunlops on a dusty lot for the first few runs so it was a bit loose (yeah, yeah, only change one thing at a time). We pulled the front compression back a click during this time. After switching to a scrubbed set of Hankooks, the car drove exactly as it has before, albeit flatter. Back to the Dunlops on the now clean surface and the car had the same balance as the Hankooks.

Since the car is so stable on corner entry, our fastest line appears to start with trail-braking or pitching into the corner. With the right timing, the rotation continues with the transition into throttle (no drama). With the wrong timing, the rotation ceases and the car understeers into throttle.

 

You are going to start all over again once you get more front camber. Glad things are working well for you right now - will be fun to chat in Lincoln.

My car is almost a full inch lower than yours - albeit with the rear a touch higher than the front.

 

I don't doubt that. We are wearing the outer shoulders on the soft Hankooks. The Dunlops didn't roll over though

I haven't bothered going lower yet because I have some speed bumps and a wicked driveway to contend with. I've probably got another .25"-.5" more to go, but I haven't been able to quantify what it gets me.

 

has anyone measured the suspension geometry to see that if lowering the car to much would do more harm than good?

 

i've read over and over that the benefits of low cg overweigh the drawbacks of less than ideal geometry (with the right setup). i don't think numbers on paper can determine if your car crosses the line in less time.

my car is nearly as low as nick's and i'm going to bring it down some more. the car feels amazing. there's only one way to find out! drop it and see how you like it.

dan

 

Bingo.

 

The suspension is totally stock on that Evo btw. The grip was insane.

-Jake
www.HamfistRacing.com

 

Anyone know a good way to remove the bushings from the rear upper control arms? I'm doing some last minute thrashing on the car before nationals. Because the rear bushings have an outer stop on them they have to be pressed from the inside-out. I might be able to figure it out with a vice, but certainly not my hydraulic press.

Also, turns out my ebay rear UCA balljoints look substantially different than stock, so they aren't going in...